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I ever did eat.
OUR RECIPES: SEA PIE Sea Pie has nothing to do with fish. Instead it was a dish that could be assembled on board sailing vessels before the advent either of canning or refrigeration, when preserving meant salting or drying. It therefore is not surprising that there are a lot of variations. More antiquarian and less tasty versions use corned beef and crumbledhardtack.
OUR RECIPES: POTTED BEEF. The English traditionally potted all kinds of meat and seafood under a layer of clarified butter. The original purpose of potting was preservation: The butter cap blocked bacteria and other nasties from the food beneath. Like other preservative methods that survive the age of pasteurization, refrigeration, shrink wrapping and more, pottinghas a side-effect.
OUR RECIPES: STEAMED MINCE PUDDING Generously grease a 1½ quart pudding basin with butter. Cut away a quarter of the dough and shape the remainder into a thickish disc. Line the pudding basin by pushing the disc out and up the sides of the basin. Mix together the elements of the filling other than the stock. Fill the basin loosely with the beef mixture and enough stock barelySHETLAND SAUCERMEAT
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic ofShetland dishes.
OUR RECIPES: MUSHROOM MOUSSE WITH FRIED MUSHROOMS Preheat the oven to 275°. Break the eggs and yolks into a bowl. Butter the ramekins with generosity. Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium low heat gently fry the porcini and shallot together. Cook the mixture until the mushrooms soften to a supple texture: You do not want much residual moisture. Add the cream, bringit to a boil and
OUR RECIPES: RHUBARB SAUCES FOR FISH… & OTHER THINGS TOO Rhubarb, like gooseberries, is the basis of a traditional sauce for service with mackerel and other oily fish at various places in the British Isles including London, Bristol and Ireland. The tart snap of the plant is a bracing foil for the fish. Our recipes reflect the regional variations of available ingredients back in the day. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the OUR RECIPES: MULLIGATAWNY MADHUR JAFFREY′S WAY Jaffrey appropriates this British creation for “the Anglo-Indian community in India,†people of mixed Indian and British ancestry. That is fair enough, for Anglo-Indians in this sense of the term have, like the British in Britain, made the dish their own. This iteration of the soup is more ‘Indianized’ than some in its use of chickpea flour and separate spices in OUR RECIPES: BOILED DAISY HAM WITH VEGETABLES Put everything but the cabbage in a pot, cover the contents with water, bring to a boil and then cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and simmer for another half hour or so, until the pork and potatoes are tender. Slice the pork and serve it with the vegetables. OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S The salad is brightened with lemon zest and whatever fresh herbs you have got, then bound with a little mayonnaise lightened with yogurt and, of course, some Outerbridge’s. It is easy to assemble and, as the only notation to the original recipes says: “Absolutely scrumptious!”. -2 cups cooked rice. -¼ lb salami, either thinlyribboned or
OUR RECIPES: LOBSCOUSE Lobscouse. The signature dish of the great port of Liverpool and a staple for sailors during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It is a plain dish but a good one, and was even popular with The Quality when they booked passage on merchantmen, as Janet Schaw attested in the 1770s: “….lobscouse is one of the most savoury dishesI ever did eat.
OUR RECIPES: SEA PIE Sea Pie has nothing to do with fish. Instead it was a dish that could be assembled on board sailing vessels before the advent either of canning or refrigeration, when preserving meant salting or drying. It therefore is not surprising that there are a lot of variations. More antiquarian and less tasty versions use corned beef and crumbledhardtack.
OUR RECIPES: POTTED BEEF. The English traditionally potted all kinds of meat and seafood under a layer of clarified butter. The original purpose of potting was preservation: The butter cap blocked bacteria and other nasties from the food beneath. Like other preservative methods that survive the age of pasteurization, refrigeration, shrink wrapping and more, pottinghas a side-effect.
OUR RECIPES: STEAMED MINCE PUDDING Generously grease a 1½ quart pudding basin with butter. Cut away a quarter of the dough and shape the remainder into a thickish disc. Line the pudding basin by pushing the disc out and up the sides of the basin. Mix together the elements of the filling other than the stock. Fill the basin loosely with the beef mixture and enough stock barelySHETLAND SAUCERMEAT
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic ofShetland dishes.
OUR RECIPES: MUSHROOM MOUSSE WITH FRIED MUSHROOMS Preheat the oven to 275°. Break the eggs and yolks into a bowl. Butter the ramekins with generosity. Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium low heat gently fry the porcini and shallot together. Cook the mixture until the mushrooms soften to a supple texture: You do not want much residual moisture. Add the cream, bringit to a boil and
OUR RECIPES: RHUBARB SAUCES FOR FISH… & OTHER THINGS TOO Rhubarb, like gooseberries, is the basis of a traditional sauce for service with mackerel and other oily fish at various places in the British Isles including London, Bristol and Ireland. The tart snap of the plant is a bracing foil for the fish. Our recipes reflect the regional variations of available ingredients back in the day. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the OUR RECIPES: MULLIGATAWNY MADHUR JAFFREY′S WAY Jaffrey appropriates this British creation for “the Anglo-Indian community in India,†people of mixed Indian and British ancestry. That is fair enough, for Anglo-Indians in this sense of the term have, like the British in Britain, made the dish their own. This iteration of the soup is more ‘Indianized’ than some in its use of chickpea flour and separate spices in OUR RECIPES: BOILED DAISY HAM WITH VEGETABLES Put everything but the cabbage in a pot, cover the contents with water, bring to a boil and then cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and simmer for another half hour or so, until the pork and potatoes are tender. Slice the pork and serve it with the vegetables. OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S The salad is brightened with lemon zest and whatever fresh herbs you have got, then bound with a little mayonnaise lightened with yogurt and, of course, some Outerbridge’s. It is easy to assemble and, as the only notation to the original recipes says: “Absolutely scrumptious!”. -2 cups cooked rice. -¼ lb salami, either thinlyribboned or
OUR RECIPES: LOBSCOUSE Lobscouse. The signature dish of the great port of Liverpool and a staple for sailors during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It is a plain dish but a good one, and was even popular with The Quality when they booked passage on merchantmen, as Janet Schaw attested in the 1770s: “….lobscouse is one of the most savoury dishesI ever did eat.
OUR RECIPES: POTTED BEEF. The English traditionally potted all kinds of meat and seafood under a layer of clarified butter. The original purpose of potting was preservation: The butter cap blocked bacteria and other nasties from the food beneath. Like other preservative methods that survive the age of pasteurization, refrigeration, shrink wrapping and more, pottinghas a side-effect.
OUR RECIPES: DEVILLED BUTTER One of britishfoodinamerica’s favorite savory compound butters, from the great age of the East India Company, and a classic British permutation of the Indian palette. Devilled butter was traditionally spooned cold onto hot grilled chops of lamb, pork, veal or kidneys. The Editor devours devilled butter on grilled rare hanger steaks: The pungent butter rivals the gamey flavor of an aged OUR RECIPES: RHUBARB SAUCES FOR FISH… & OTHER THINGS TOO Rhubarb, like gooseberries, is the basis of a traditional sauce for service with mackerel and other oily fish at various places in the British Isles including London, Bristol and Ireland. The tart snap of the plant is a bracing foil for the fish. Our recipes reflect the regional variations of available ingredients back in the day. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the OUR RECIPES: OATMEAL PANCAKES WITH BACON. The recipe is from Irish Traditional Food by Theodora FitzGibbon (London 1983) who unfortunately omits its provenance. This is a savory alternative to the commoner syrup treatment. Four big pancakes. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival of British foodways. Articles and recipes feature English foods from Britain, the British colonies, foods of OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S ‘Outerbridge’s Original Sherry Peppers Sauce’ may have an awkward name but it is a Thing We Like. Along with many commercial enterprises, Outerbridge’s has a cookbook, theirs self published in Bermuda during 1991. It is of course promotional; all the recipes include an Outerbridge’s product, which is no bad thing because their products all are good. OUR RECIPES: BENJAMIN FRANKLIN’S CLARIFIED MILK PUNCH 1½ cups whole milk. Steep the zest in the brandy for a good 24 hours, then strain away the zest. Add the juice, nutmeg, sugar and water to the brandy. Boil the milk and pour it into the brandy mixture. Let the mess (it will be hideously curdled) stand for about 2 hours. Strain the punch through a jellybag or coffee filter cradled in a strainer JANE GRIGSON’S POTTED CHEESE Jane Grigson’s potted cheese. Potting is one of the oldest English means of preserving food, and one of the best tasting. Grated, minced or pounded protein would be enthusiastically seasoned and set in a base of butter in proportions that vary widely by cook and over time. The butter would have been clarified for the purpose of preservation OUR GUEST HISTORIAN READS LARK RISE Flora Thompson published Lark Rise in 1939 when she was in her sixties. The book was followed by Over to Candleford in 1941 and Candleford Green in 1943. Together these three volumes comprise the trilogy From Lark Rise to Candleford, which has become recognised in Britain as a classic for its evocation of English rural life in the last years of the nineteenth century and a window on a vanishedSASSERMAET CLATCH
Preheat the oven to 350˚. Grease an ovenproof pie pan or dish. Brown the saucermeat over medium high to high heat in a big heavy skillet, then add the onion, reduce the heat to medium and cook the mixture until the onion softens. Let the mixture cool, fold in the eggs and dump the mixture into the dish. Top the saucermeat mix with the tomato OUR RECIPES: SEA PIE Sea Pie has nothing to do with fish. Instead it was a dish that could be assembled on board sailing vessels before the advent either of canning or refrigeration, when preserving meant salting or drying. It therefore is not surprising that there are a lot of variations. More antiquarian and less tasty versions use corned beef and crumbledhardtack.
OUR RECIPES: SHORT RIBS WITH ALE & TREACLE. Preheat the oven to 300°. Put a big heavy oven pot on medium low heat: Once the pot is hot add the oil followed by the onion. Once the onion softens, turn the heat up to high and add the butter followed by the carrot, celery, mushrooms, bay, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir the pot, plunk the beef atop the vegetation, let it all cook a minute or OUR RECIPES: OATMEAL PANCAKES WITH BACON. The recipe is from Irish Traditional Food by Theodora FitzGibbon (London 1983) who unfortunately omits its provenance. This is a savory alternative to the commoner syrup treatment. Four big pancakes. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival of British foodways. Articles and recipes feature English foods from Britain, the British colonies, foods of OUR RECIPES: STEAMED MINCE PUDDING Generously grease a 1½ quart pudding basin with butter. Cut away a quarter of the dough and shape the remainder into a thickish disc. Line the pudding basin by pushing the disc out and up the sides of the basin. Mix together the elements of the filling other than the stock. Fill the basin loosely with the beef mixture and enough stock barely OUR RECIPES: BARA BRITH A DIFFERENT WAY, MADE WITH TEA Bara Brith (speckled bread) a different way, made with tea and marmalade. With its inclusion of marmalade, this version seems to the Editor as Scottish as Welsh. It goes well with a sharp Cheddar or other strong hard (no letters please) cheese. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival ofBritish foodways.
SHETLAND SAUCERMEAT
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic ofShetland dishes.
OUR RECIPES: NEW ENGLAND FRICASSEES New England fricassees. The 1996 edition of Fanny Farmer, the Yankee Mrs. Beeton, describes fricassee as “ great old-fashioned dish, the essence of chicken in a creamy sauce.†Like Mrs. Beeton, editors transformed the text of Fanny Farmer over the course of multiple editions so that the 1996 recipe does not bear much resemblance to the original. OUR RECIPES: BENJAMIN FRANKLIN’S CLARIFIED MILK PUNCH 1½ cups whole milk. Steep the zest in the brandy for a good 24 hours, then strain away the zest. Add the juice, nutmeg, sugar and water to the brandy. Boil the milk and pour it into the brandy mixture. Let the mess (it will be hideously curdled) stand for about 2 hours. Strain the punch through a jellybag or coffee filter cradled in a strainer MRS. BEETON’S STEAK & KIDNEY PIE Elizabeth David reviled Isabella Beeton as a plagiarist who could not cook, someone who stole her recipes, most unjustly, to David, from the great Eliza Acton and flogged bastardized abominations of the French food that David purported to adore, at least earlier in life. As was so often the case, David was unfair. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion andSUSSEX STEWED STEAK
Sussex stewed steak. Both Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson like this recipe, which in theory should make it a good bet, and in practice it is. You need a cheap cut of beef, a dusting of flour and a little good liquid, nothing more. This is an easy dish with a beguiling flavor, and notwithstanding its humble ingredients makes an elegant and stress-free company dinner. OUR RECIPES: SEA PIE Sea Pie has nothing to do with fish. Instead it was a dish that could be assembled on board sailing vessels before the advent either of canning or refrigeration, when preserving meant salting or drying. It therefore is not surprising that there are a lot of variations. More antiquarian and less tasty versions use corned beef and crumbledhardtack.
OUR RECIPES: SHORT RIBS WITH ALE & TREACLE. Preheat the oven to 300°. Put a big heavy oven pot on medium low heat: Once the pot is hot add the oil followed by the onion. Once the onion softens, turn the heat up to high and add the butter followed by the carrot, celery, mushrooms, bay, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir the pot, plunk the beef atop the vegetation, let it all cook a minute or OUR RECIPES: OATMEAL PANCAKES WITH BACON. The recipe is from Irish Traditional Food by Theodora FitzGibbon (London 1983) who unfortunately omits its provenance. This is a savory alternative to the commoner syrup treatment. Four big pancakes. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival of British foodways. Articles and recipes feature English foods from Britain, the British colonies, foods of OUR RECIPES: STEAMED MINCE PUDDING Generously grease a 1½ quart pudding basin with butter. Cut away a quarter of the dough and shape the remainder into a thickish disc. Line the pudding basin by pushing the disc out and up the sides of the basin. Mix together the elements of the filling other than the stock. Fill the basin loosely with the beef mixture and enough stock barely OUR RECIPES: BARA BRITH A DIFFERENT WAY, MADE WITH TEA Bara Brith (speckled bread) a different way, made with tea and marmalade. With its inclusion of marmalade, this version seems to the Editor as Scottish as Welsh. It goes well with a sharp Cheddar or other strong hard (no letters please) cheese. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival ofBritish foodways.
SHETLAND SAUCERMEAT
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic ofShetland dishes.
OUR RECIPES: NEW ENGLAND FRICASSEES New England fricassees. The 1996 edition of Fanny Farmer, the Yankee Mrs. Beeton, describes fricassee as “ great old-fashioned dish, the essence of chicken in a creamy sauce.†Like Mrs. Beeton, editors transformed the text of Fanny Farmer over the course of multiple editions so that the 1996 recipe does not bear much resemblance to the original. OUR RECIPES: BENJAMIN FRANKLIN’S CLARIFIED MILK PUNCH 1½ cups whole milk. Steep the zest in the brandy for a good 24 hours, then strain away the zest. Add the juice, nutmeg, sugar and water to the brandy. Boil the milk and pour it into the brandy mixture. Let the mess (it will be hideously curdled) stand for about 2 hours. Strain the punch through a jellybag or coffee filter cradled in a strainer MRS. BEETON’S STEAK & KIDNEY PIE Elizabeth David reviled Isabella Beeton as a plagiarist who could not cook, someone who stole her recipes, most unjustly, to David, from the great Eliza Acton and flogged bastardized abominations of the French food that David purported to adore, at least earlier in life. As was so often the case, David was unfair. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion andSUSSEX STEWED STEAK
Sussex stewed steak. Both Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson like this recipe, which in theory should make it a good bet, and in practice it is. You need a cheap cut of beef, a dusting of flour and a little good liquid, nothing more. This is an easy dish with a beguiling flavor, and notwithstanding its humble ingredients makes an elegant and stress-free company dinner. OUR RECIPES: LOBSCOUSE Lobscouse. The signature dish of the great port of Liverpool and a staple for sailors during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It is a plain dish but a good one, and was even popular with The Quality when they booked passage on merchantmen, as Janet Schaw attested in the 1770s: “….lobscouse is one of the most savoury dishesI ever did eat.
OUR RECIPES: BARA BRITH A DIFFERENT WAY, MADE WITH TEA Bara Brith (speckled bread) a different way, made with tea and marmalade. With its inclusion of marmalade, this version seems to the Editor as Scottish as Welsh. It goes well with a sharp Cheddar or other strong hard (no letters please) cheese. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival ofBritish foodways.
OUR RECIPES: NEW ENGLAND FRICASSEES New England fricassees. The 1996 edition of Fanny Farmer, the Yankee Mrs. Beeton, describes fricassee as “ great old-fashioned dish, the essence of chicken in a creamy sauce.†Like Mrs. Beeton, editors transformed the text of Fanny Farmer over the course of multiple editions so that the 1996 recipe does not bear much resemblance to the original. OUR RECIPES: BOILED DAISY HAM WITH VEGETABLES Put everything but the cabbage in a pot, cover the contents with water, bring to a boil and then cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and simmer for another half hour or so, until the pork and potatoes are tender. Slice the pork and serve it with the vegetables. OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S The salad is brightened with lemon zest and whatever fresh herbs you have got, then bound with a little mayonnaise lightened with yogurt and, of course, some Outerbridge’s. It is easy to assemble and, as the only notation to the original recipes says: “Absolutely scrumptious!”. -2 cups cooked rice. -¼ lb salami, either thinlyribboned or
OUR RECIPES: TOMATO SANDWICHES. Somewhere in a source long forgotten the Editor found culinary reference in a history of the 1940 battle for France. An RAF fighter goes down, its pilot survives and the Luftwaffe captures him near one of its forward airfields. It takes some time for transport to the Stalag and his temporary captors treat him well. They eat lunch together, tomato sandwiches and Champagne, this latter looted no OUR RECIPES: DEVILLED TURKEY & PULLED TURKEY. To make the pulled turkey, heat the butter over medium heat until just melted in a skillet big enough to hold the white meat and then stir in the cream. Bring the cream to a boil, fold in the white meat and stir while the dish heats through and begins to steam. Stir in the lemon juice and parsley, taste for salt and pepper, then reduce the heatSUSSEX STEWED STEAK
Sussex stewed steak. Both Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson like this recipe, which in theory should make it a good bet, and in practice it is. You need a cheap cut of beef, a dusting of flour and a little good liquid, nothing more. This is an easy dish with a beguiling flavor, and notwithstanding its humble ingredients makes an elegant and stress-free company dinner. LAMB CHOPS ‘PORTMANTEAU’ According to Elisabeth Ayrton, this is a dish that traditionally was served as a hunt breakfast. She locates the recipe in the Cotswalds but does not divulge her source or its date. It has the feel of an Edwardian favorite, however, both for its association with extravagant hunting and for its extravagant style. Mrs. Ayrton calls her recipe “Lamb Chops Portmanteau’d,â NO SMALL SURPRISE: THE UNEXPECTED UTILITY OF CHEAP FAKE No small surprise: The unexpected utility of cheap fake Madeira. On a rainy and cold April afternoon the Editor found herself with a companion at a favorite place, the bar of Husk in Charleston, South Carolina. Roderick Weaver, the head bartender, had opened his doors early to shelter sodden wanderers like us. OUR RECIPES: SEA PIE Sea Pie has nothing to do with fish. Instead it was a dish that could be assembled on board sailing vessels before the advent either of canning or refrigeration, when preserving meant salting or drying. It therefore is not surprising that there are a lot of variations. More antiquarian and less tasty versions use corned beef and crumbledhardtack.
SHETLAND SAUCERMEAT
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic ofShetland dishes.
OUR RECIPES: SHORT RIBS WITH ALE & TREACLE. Preheat the oven to 300°. Put a big heavy oven pot on medium low heat: Once the pot is hot add the oil followed by the onion. Once the onion softens, turn the heat up to high and add the butter followed by the carrot, celery, mushrooms, bay, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir the pot, plunk the beef atop the vegetation, let it all cook a minute or OUR RECIPES: OATMEAL PANCAKES WITH BACON. The recipe is from Irish Traditional Food by Theodora FitzGibbon (London 1983) who unfortunately omits its provenance. This is a savory alternative to the commoner syrup treatment. Four big pancakes. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival of British foodways. Articles and recipes feature English foods from Britain, the British colonies, foods of OUR RECIPES: MULLIGATAWNY MADHUR JAFFREY′S WAY Jaffrey appropriates this British creation for “the Anglo-Indian community in India,†people of mixed Indian and British ancestry. That is fair enough, for Anglo-Indians in this sense of the term have, like the British in Britain, made the dish their own. This iteration of the soup is more ‘Indianized’ than some in its use of chickpea flour and separate spices in OUR RECIPES: BOILED DAISY HAM WITH VEGETABLES Put everything but the cabbage in a pot, cover the contents with water, bring to a boil and then cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and simmer for another half hour or so, until the pork and potatoes are tender. Slice the pork and serve it with the vegetables. OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S The salad is brightened with lemon zest and whatever fresh herbs you have got, then bound with a little mayonnaise lightened with yogurt and, of course, some Outerbridge’s. It is easy to assemble and, as the only notation to the original recipes says: “Absolutely scrumptious!”. -2 cups cooked rice. -¼ lb salami, either thinlyribboned or
SASSERMAET CLATCH
Preheat the oven to 350˚. Grease an ovenproof pie pan or dish. Brown the saucermeat over medium high to high heat in a big heavy skillet, then add the onion, reduce the heat to medium and cook the mixture until the onion softens. Let the mixture cool, fold in the eggs and dump the mixture into the dish. Top the saucermeat mix with the tomato OUR RECIPES: BENJAMIN FRANKLIN’S CLARIFIED MILK PUNCH 1½ cups whole milk. Steep the zest in the brandy for a good 24 hours, then strain away the zest. Add the juice, nutmeg, sugar and water to the brandy. Boil the milk and pour it into the brandy mixture. Let the mess (it will be hideously curdled) stand for about 2 hours. Strain the punch through a jellybag or coffee filter cradled in a strainer THE UNEXPECTED ORIGIN OF SHEPHERDS’ PIE It is a homely thing in one or another sense of the word, depending on your point of view. The coziest comfort on a wintry night, shepherds’ pie in different guise looms ugly along with sadistic classmates and hungry vampires in the nightmares of old English schoolboys or graduates of American boarding schools. Comfort comes from fresh ingredients selected for the very purpose of OUR RECIPES: SEA PIE Sea Pie has nothing to do with fish. Instead it was a dish that could be assembled on board sailing vessels before the advent either of canning or refrigeration, when preserving meant salting or drying. It therefore is not surprising that there are a lot of variations. More antiquarian and less tasty versions use corned beef and crumbledhardtack.
SHETLAND SAUCERMEAT
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic ofShetland dishes.
OUR RECIPES: SHORT RIBS WITH ALE & TREACLE. Preheat the oven to 300°. Put a big heavy oven pot on medium low heat: Once the pot is hot add the oil followed by the onion. Once the onion softens, turn the heat up to high and add the butter followed by the carrot, celery, mushrooms, bay, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir the pot, plunk the beef atop the vegetation, let it all cook a minute or OUR RECIPES: OATMEAL PANCAKES WITH BACON. The recipe is from Irish Traditional Food by Theodora FitzGibbon (London 1983) who unfortunately omits its provenance. This is a savory alternative to the commoner syrup treatment. Four big pancakes. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival of British foodways. Articles and recipes feature English foods from Britain, the British colonies, foods of OUR RECIPES: MULLIGATAWNY MADHUR JAFFREY′S WAY Jaffrey appropriates this British creation for “the Anglo-Indian community in India,†people of mixed Indian and British ancestry. That is fair enough, for Anglo-Indians in this sense of the term have, like the British in Britain, made the dish their own. This iteration of the soup is more ‘Indianized’ than some in its use of chickpea flour and separate spices in OUR RECIPES: BOILED DAISY HAM WITH VEGETABLES Put everything but the cabbage in a pot, cover the contents with water, bring to a boil and then cover the pot and reduce the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and simmer for another half hour or so, until the pork and potatoes are tender. Slice the pork and serve it with the vegetables. OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S The salad is brightened with lemon zest and whatever fresh herbs you have got, then bound with a little mayonnaise lightened with yogurt and, of course, some Outerbridge’s. It is easy to assemble and, as the only notation to the original recipes says: “Absolutely scrumptious!”. -2 cups cooked rice. -¼ lb salami, either thinlyribboned or
SASSERMAET CLATCH
Preheat the oven to 350˚. Grease an ovenproof pie pan or dish. Brown the saucermeat over medium high to high heat in a big heavy skillet, then add the onion, reduce the heat to medium and cook the mixture until the onion softens. Let the mixture cool, fold in the eggs and dump the mixture into the dish. Top the saucermeat mix with the tomato OUR RECIPES: BENJAMIN FRANKLIN’S CLARIFIED MILK PUNCH 1½ cups whole milk. Steep the zest in the brandy for a good 24 hours, then strain away the zest. Add the juice, nutmeg, sugar and water to the brandy. Boil the milk and pour it into the brandy mixture. Let the mess (it will be hideously curdled) stand for about 2 hours. Strain the punch through a jellybag or coffee filter cradled in a strainer THE UNEXPECTED ORIGIN OF SHEPHERDS’ PIE It is a homely thing in one or another sense of the word, depending on your point of view. The coziest comfort on a wintry night, shepherds’ pie in different guise looms ugly along with sadistic classmates and hungry vampires in the nightmares of old English schoolboys or graduates of American boarding schools. Comfort comes from fresh ingredients selected for the very purpose of OUR RECIPES: LOBSCOUSE Lobscouse. The signature dish of the great port of Liverpool and a staple for sailors during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It is a plain dish but a good one, and was even popular with The Quality when they booked passage on merchantmen, as Janet Schaw attested in the 1770s: “….lobscouse is one of the most savoury dishesI ever did eat.
TRADITIONAL YORKSHIRE FOOD Traditional Yorkshire Food. 1. But wait, there’s more!. In 1952, Dorothy Hartley published the idiosyncratic and delightful Food in England. With its brawny line drawings, raft of recipes, brisk judgments and extensive quotations, Food in England is a classic, and remains in print. Not quite a survey, more an extended discussion offoods and
OUR RECIPES: EIGHTEENTH CENTURY NORFOLK PUDDING Parson Woodforde, along with many other English people of the middling sort, ate lots of Norfolk puddings during the long eighteenth century and we could do worse than follow suit. These are baked batter puddings that are forgiving to the point of foolproof and would make a welcome surprise for the twenty-first century diner. Once again we have taken Jane Grigson’s recipe from Food with OUR RECIPES: A BERMUDAN SALAD FROM OUTERBRIDGE’S ‘Outerbridge’s Original Sherry Peppers Sauce’ may have an awkward name but it is a Thing We Like. Along with many commercial enterprises, Outerbridge’s has a cookbook, theirs self published in Bermuda during 1991. It is of course promotional; all the recipes include an Outerbridge’s product, which is no bad thing because their products all are good.SASSERMAET CLATCH
Preheat the oven to 350˚. Grease an ovenproof pie pan or dish. Brown the saucermeat over medium high to high heat in a big heavy skillet, then add the onion, reduce the heat to medium and cook the mixture until the onion softens. Let the mixture cool, fold in the eggs and dump the mixture into the dish. Top the saucermeat mix with the tomato OUR RECIPES: DEVILLED TURKEY & PULLED TURKEY. To make the pulled turkey, heat the butter over medium heat until just melted in a skillet big enough to hold the white meat and then stir in the cream. Bring the cream to a boil, fold in the white meat and stir while the dish heats through and begins to steam. Stir in the lemon juice and parsley, taste for salt and pepper, then reduce the heat BACON & MUSHROOM ROLY POLY It would be an understatement to observe that puddings, both savory and sweet, were popular among Georgian Britons, both on land and at sea. This savory one is easy to make and good to eat. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and revival of British foodways. Articles and recipes feature English foods from Britain, the British colonies, foods of the OUR RECIPES: GIBLETS PREPARED ANOTHER EIGHTEENTH CENTURY Parson Woodforde and his circle were not the only eighteenth century English epicures acquainted with the allure of the giblet. As Peter Brears explains in Cooking and Dining with the Wordsworths (Ludlow, England 2011): “Goose-giblet pie is now a virtually forgotten dish, but up to the late nineteenth century it was relatively popular, served either alongside the roast goose, or as a MRS. BEETON’S STEAK & KIDNEY PIE Elizabeth David reviled Isabella Beeton as a plagiarist who could not cook, someone who stole her recipes, most unjustly, to David, from the great Eliza Acton and flogged bastardized abominations of the French food that David purported to adore, at least earlier in life. As was so often the case, David was unfair. British Food in America is the online magazine dedicated to the discussion and THE CURIOUS CASE OF THE PROLIFERATING PEPPERPOT & ITS Pepperpot appears in different guises as a local specialty all over the Caribbean basin and, an apparent outlier among North American cities, also in Philadelphia. Jessica B. Harris, however, does not consider Philadelphia anomalous at all; she claims it as a northern Creole city because Africans slave and free (but mostly slave) lived there during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.The online magazine
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British Food _in_ AmericaNO.61
SUMMER2019
A NUMBER OF DRINKS FOR SUMMERIN _THE CRITICAL_
* We Revisit Homefield Kitchen & Brewery * Some Strange and Wondrous Drinks from Ambrose Heath* Some Rum
* A Note on the Latest Extension of the Jamesons BrandIN _THE LYRICAL_
* A Note on the Natures and Welcome Revival of Punch * A Note on the Mystery of English Milk Punch * Ambrose Heath and Olive Oil During Wartime Lead Us to a QuestionIN _THE PRACTICAL_
* The Cure, or, Some Bloody Episodes*
_RECIPES_
* A Note on the Recipes * Tomato Cocktails from Ambrose Heath * Arrack & Port Milk Punch with Tea * Benjamin Franklin's Clarified Milk Punch * The Britishfoodinamerica Milk Punch * The Escoffier Milk Punch with a Comment by Ambrose Heath * Ambrose Heath's Norfolk Milk PunchFEATURES
* Things We Like:
Terra Firma Farm Whole Milk Baxter’s Albert’s Victorian Chutney Nabisco Ginger Snaps Bewley's Dublin Morning Tea * Conventional Wisdom * Pizza Delivery: The false promise of Mark Bittman. * We _ did_ get here first * We Did _ Not_ Get Here First* Wall of Shame:
Apologimania, the British Council and false facts: George Orwell and the assault on English food.* Fast Food
* Necropolis
* Banned Substances
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