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EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto HOW TO CHOP A BOLT RIGHT Right | Evening Sends. How to Chop a Bolt . Right. The phrase “chopping bolts” is one of the worst misnomers in the climbing lexicon. Chopping a bolt really just means taking a bolt out of the rock. Yet for some reason, the term “chop” connotes the idea of a righteous, half-crazed trad zealot committing a violent act—via TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk.EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto HOW TO CHOP A BOLT RIGHT Right | Evening Sends. How to Chop a Bolt . Right. The phrase “chopping bolts” is one of the worst misnomers in the climbing lexicon. Chopping a bolt really just means taking a bolt out of the rock. Yet for some reason, the term “chop” connotes the idea of a righteous, half-crazed trad zealot committing a violent act—via TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. THE BEST CRASH PADS FOR BOULDERING 2021 The 3X4 Pro is Send’s highest quality standard sized pad, and can be extended with an optional Add-A-Pad panel into a lap pool sized 3’ by 6’ flop zone. Every detail of this pad feels like it was built with attention and care, and after a year of heavy use, it isn’t showing any signs of wear. The handles are made from easy to grab rope THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
COMFORTABLE PERFORMANCE: VUORI CLOTHING Vuori makes high-quality clothing out of really nice fabrics. The line is, above all, comfortable. It’s hip, yet understated with dark, subtle tones and no big, ugly logos. Vuori’s crossover from one activity to another is huge. Vuori is not perfect for everything I do, but it’s more perfect for most of what I do than any other brand I THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare.FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. HOW TO CHOP A BOLT RIGHT Right | Evening Sends. How to Chop a Bolt . Right. The phrase “chopping bolts” is one of the worst misnomers in the climbing lexicon. Chopping a bolt really just means taking a bolt out of the rock. Yet for some reason, the term “chop” connotes the idea of a righteous, half-crazed trad zealot committing a violent act—viaEVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare.FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. HOW TO CHOP A BOLT RIGHT Right | Evening Sends. How to Chop a Bolt . Right. The phrase “chopping bolts” is one of the worst misnomers in the climbing lexicon. Chopping a bolt really just means taking a bolt out of the rock. Yet for some reason, the term “chop” connotes the idea of a righteous, half-crazed trad zealot committing a violent act—via MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT LAYERING IS WRONG People used to wear fleece as their mid-layer, with a W/B shell as an outer layer. But in recent years, I’ve noticed a new (disturbing) trend: light down jackets being used as mid-layers underneath W/B shells. Basically, this is the worst of both worlds! No breathability. Little stretch. Easy to ME FIRST: HOW WE ADVENTURE In December 2018, the media tuned in to a dramatic adventure story: Colin O’Brady, a 33-year-old American, was vying to achieve what he called “The Impossible First,” the first “solo, unsupported, unassisted” crossing of Antarctica. The fact that another guy was simultaneously trying to do the same thing via the same route raisedthe
YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
HOW TO TIE THE BUNNY EARS KNOT Whether you’re doing a three-pitch free climb or a 3000-foot big wall, multi-pitch climbing is all about efficiency. Every little time-saving action, every slightly more streamlined step, adds up to saving you precious hours—it’s the difference between climbing the last hundred feet of 5.9 offwidth by headlamp and topping out to a perfect sunset and sipping a beer by dark.SCARPA CHIMERA
In my honest opinion, the Scarpa Chimera is easily a strong contender for the best sport climbing shoe on the market—hands down. The vacuum fit, asymmetric shape, and ratio of sensitivity-to-support position the Chimera as an ideal shoe for 30-meters of overhanging edging, smearing, and performance. I have but two gripes: I don’tlike the
EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else.FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else.FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT LAYERING IS WRONG People used to wear fleece as their mid-layer, with a W/B shell as an outer layer. But in recent years, I’ve noticed a new (disturbing) trend: light down jackets being used as mid-layers underneath W/B shells. Basically, this is the worst of both worlds! No breathability. Little stretch. Easy to ME FIRST: HOW WE ADVENTURE In December 2018, the media tuned in to a dramatic adventure story: Colin O’Brady, a 33-year-old American, was vying to achieve what he called “The Impossible First,” the first “solo, unsupported, unassisted” crossing of Antarctica. The fact that another guy was simultaneously trying to do the same thing via the same route raisedthe
HOW TO TIE THE BUNNY EARS KNOT Here’s how you tie it: Step 1. Tie a figure eight on a bite, making the loop part of the knot very long, two feet at least. Step 2. Take this loop and feed it directly back through the knot (the same part of the knot where the loop is coming out of). Note how two “bunny ears” start forming during this step. Bunny ears: THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
SCARPA CHIMERA
In my honest opinion, the Scarpa Chimera is easily a strong contender for the best sport climbing shoe on the market—hands down. The vacuum fit, asymmetric shape, and ratio of sensitivity-to-support position the Chimera as an ideal shoe for 30-meters of overhanging edging, smearing, and performance. I have but two gripes: I don’tlike the
EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk.EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE BEST CLIMBING HARNESSES 2021 These are Evening Sends’ picks for the best climbing harnesses you can buy this year. These selections reflect a specific preference for what we look for in a climbing harness: light, packable, little extra clutter, ultimate simplicity, and comfortable enough to get the jobdone.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE SCARPA BOOSTER S SHOE REVIEW The main difference is that the Booster S is much softer and much more sensitive than the Boostic. The tech behind the increased sensitivity comes, in part, from the super minimalistic mid-sole. Holding the shoe, you can easily bend/flex it in half. It seems almost flimsy compared to other normal shoes. However, once you strap this shoe onto LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW Scarpa Furia S. The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well. Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. LOG IN | EVENING SENDS Climbing’s popular. What did you think would happen? May 11, 2021 | Essays & Opinion. Featured MARGO HAYES, CHRIS SHARMA, AND THE DUALITY OF BIOGRAPHIE I was in college when Chris Sharma did the first ascent of the Biographie extension at Céuse. At the time the internet’s primary function, at least in my crude estimation, was to allow for the acquisition of pirated material. THE BEST CRASH PADS FOR BOULDERING 2021 The 3X4 Pro is Send’s highest quality standard sized pad, and can be extended with an optional Add-A-Pad panel into a lap pool sized 3’ by 6’ flop zone. Every detail of this pad feels like it was built with attention and care, and after a year of heavy use, it isn’t showing any signs of wear. The handles are made from easy to grab rope FROM WEAK TO STRONG: AN EXPERT GYMNAST’S TRAINING GUIDE Some of the most famous climbers in the world, such as Lynn Hill, came from gymnastics backgrounds. When I started climbing, I had a high degree of bodyweight strength and conditioning from my time in gymnastics and parkour. (My approach is detailed in my book “Overcoming Gravity, 2nd Edition.”) For example, I’ve alwaysbeen able
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. CLIMBING’S POPULAR. WHAT DID YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN Climbing has “exploded.”. Climbing is the face of our next campaign. Climbing is how we get paid. Climbing is how we get some influence. Climbing is our opportunity. Let’s start by building a gym. Then let’s build another gym, only make it bigger, taller, and with better childcare. TITO'S LAST CLIMB: DON'T MAKE IT SOMETHING IT'S NOT Tito’s Last Climb: Don’t Make it Something It’s Not. The climbing world is reeling over the news of little 12-year-old Tito Traversa’s death. The almost uncanny circumstances causing Tito’s fatal fall, his immense talent and passion for climbing, and that toothy chipmunk grin of this not-yet-teenage phenom from Italy haveall made
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes.EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEW I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk.EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEW I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERS Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. LOG IN | EVENING SENDS Climbing’s popular. What did you think would happen? May 11, 2021 | Essays & Opinion. Featured LET THE WEAKEST LEAD Let the Weakest Lead. In 2012, Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, and Josh Wharton took on one of the world’s most formidable mountains: Baintha Brakk (23,901 feet), AKA The Ogre. This infamy was initially earned in 1977 when Chris Bonington and Doug Scott completed the first ascent of the craggy, steep mountain situated in Pakistan’sKarakoram
MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEW I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. DAMN IT FEELS GOOD TO BE A LOCAL No offense. It’s not just that we can’t handle your presence at our crags at this current moment. It’s also that we don’t want you at our crags in general. After all, we’re locals and you’re not. When we locals climb, we never put the rope in our mouths to COMFORTABLE PERFORMANCE: VUORI CLOTHING Vuori makes high-quality clothing out of really nice fabrics. The line is, above all, comfortable. It’s hip, yet understated with dark, subtle tones and no big, ugly logos. Vuori’s crossover from one activity to another is huge. Vuori is not perfect for everything I do, but it’s more perfect for most of what I do than any other brand I ME FIRST: HOW WE ADVENTURE In December 2018, the media tuned in to a dramatic adventure story: Colin O’Brady, a 33-year-old American, was vying to achieve what he called “The Impossible First,” the first “solo, unsupported, unassisted” crossing of Antarctica. The fact that another guy was simultaneously trying to do the same thing via the same route raisedthe
THE SCARPA DRAGO REVIEW: PERFORMANCE SENSITIVITY Last year I raved about the Scarpa Furia, at the time, the softest, highest-performing shoe I’ve ever tested.. Now it’s time to rave about the Scarpa Drago, easily my favorite shoe for sport-climbing and bouldering that I think I’ve ever worn.. Scarpa’s most stunning achievement, in my mind, is the Drago’s incredible soft sensitivity—it feels like you’re wearing a light rubber LA SPORTIVA TESTAROSSA After 15-plus years of service, the legendary La Sportiva Testarossa has gotten a thoughtful update. While staying true to its roots, a few minor tweaks have improved fit and function without sacrificing the aggressive downturn and soft sole that has made this shoe a long-time favorite. The new Testarossa is constructed on the same lastEVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEWMOON BOARD VS TENSION BOARDCAMPUS BOARD TRAININGCAMPUS BOARD ANGLECAMPUS BOARD FOR SALEBUILDING A CAMPUS BOARDDIY CAMPUS BOARD I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERSTOPICAL DRYING AGENT FOR SKINTOPICAL DRYING AGENT FOR SKINANTI SKINNING AGENTBEST MEDICATION FOR SKIN RASHDRYING AGENTS FOR SKIN WOUNDSDRYING AGENTS FORSKIN WOUNDS
Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk.EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES The History of Climbing Shoes. Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’shistory
CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. BLUE STEEL: A PERMADRAW SOLUTION 2. At the end of the season, or after you send (whatever comes first) you take your Blue Steel down. The benefits to this idea are numerous. First, it places the responsibility of maintaining gear on the individual, which is the most important thing. Second, it’s much more economical for both yourself and everyone else. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT Let’s look at why your climbing shoes are too tight. Bunions. Corns. Nerve or blood vessel compression (which causes that tingling sensation you feel after edging in a pair of tight, new shoes). Hallux valgus (when the big toe becomes angled in). These are just some of the problems associated with wearing overly tight shoes. LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG A year and a half after Pegg’s death, his life continues on: through inspiration, through memory, and even just through climbers like Dan seeking closure in meaningful, creative ways. After all this time, Dave Pegg continues to inspire. I reached out to Dan to ask him to share some of his thoughts about Dave, death, and this wholeexperience.
MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEWMOON BOARD VS TENSION BOARDCAMPUS BOARD TRAININGCAMPUS BOARD ANGLECAMPUS BOARD FOR SALEBUILDING A CAMPUS BOARDDIY CAMPUS BOARD I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERSTOPICAL DRYING AGENT FOR SKINTOPICAL DRYING AGENT FOR SKINANTI SKINNING AGENTBEST MEDICATION FOR SKIN RASHDRYING AGENTS FOR SKIN WOUNDSDRYING AGENTS FORSKIN WOUNDS
Antihydral Review. Sam Elias called it “a game changer.”. Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.”. Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet). I seemed to be doing just fine with regular chalk, and the occasional dab of liquid chalk. LOG IN | EVENING SENDS Climbing’s popular. What did you think would happen? May 11, 2021 | Essays & Opinion. Featured LET THE WEAKEST LEAD Let the Weakest Lead. In 2012, Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, and Josh Wharton took on one of the world’s most formidable mountains: Baintha Brakk (23,901 feet), AKA The Ogre. This infamy was initially earned in 1977 when Chris Bonington and Doug Scott completed the first ascent of the craggy, steep mountain situated in Pakistan’sKarakoram
MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEW I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 La Sportiva Focus Top. The Focus Top combines a seamless knit construction with wide crossing straps for a chafe-free, moderate support bra. I love the way the criss-cross straps moved with my body without ever digging into my back or shoulders. The knit fabric provides secure, moderate support without an elastic band around therib cage, which
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. DAMN IT FEELS GOOD TO BE A LOCAL No offense. It’s not just that we can’t handle your presence at our crags at this current moment. It’s also that we don’t want you at our crags in general. After all, we’re locals and you’re not. When we locals climb, we never put the rope in our mouths to COMFORTABLE PERFORMANCE: VUORI CLOTHING Vuori makes high-quality clothing out of really nice fabrics. The line is, above all, comfortable. It’s hip, yet understated with dark, subtle tones and no big, ugly logos. Vuori’s crossover from one activity to another is huge. Vuori is not perfect for everything I do, but it’s more perfect for most of what I do than any other brand I ME FIRST: HOW WE ADVENTURE In December 2018, the media tuned in to a dramatic adventure story: Colin O’Brady, a 33-year-old American, was vying to achieve what he called “The Impossible First,” the first “solo, unsupported, unassisted” crossing of Antarctica. The fact that another guy was simultaneously trying to do the same thing via the same route raisedthe
THE SCARPA DRAGO REVIEW: PERFORMANCE SENSITIVITY Last year I raved about the Scarpa Furia, at the time, the softest, highest-performing shoe I’ve ever tested.. Now it’s time to rave about the Scarpa Drago, easily my favorite shoe for sport-climbing and bouldering that I think I’ve ever worn.. Scarpa’s most stunning achievement, in my mind, is the Drago’s incredible soft sensitivity—it feels like you’re wearing a light rubber LA SPORTIVA TESTAROSSA After 15-plus years of service, the legendary La Sportiva Testarossa has gotten a thoughtful update. While staying true to its roots, a few minor tweaks have improved fit and function without sacrificing the aggressive downturn and soft sole that has made this shoe a long-time favorite. The new Testarossa is constructed on the same lastEVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance.. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’s history and its progression to today’s modern version. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT There is actually very little evidence to support the idea that super-tight shoes increase performance. I recently finished reviewing the best new climbing shoes in 2021. At this point, I’ve tested more than half of the climbing shoes on the market.FRICTION LABS CHALK
Friction Labs claims that what makes their chalk superior is its higher ratio of magnesium-carbonate (the dry stuff that keeps water inside its molecules) to calcium-carbonate, calcium-sulfate and other impurities (the slippery stuff that keeps water outside itsmolecules).
LEADING A WIDE LIFE, EVEN IN DEATH: DAVE PEGG Dan’s idea was to go climb at the Distillery, a crag that Pegg helped develop. Despite being just 10 minutes from my front door, I’d never actually climbed at the Distillery before, though I’d heard tale of a “Living in Fear” style 5.13c that Pegg established, and considered to be one of his finest additions in his own personal pantheon of chossy, Western Slope first ascents. MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEWMOON BOARD VS TENSION BOARDCAMPUS BOARD TRAININGCAMPUS BOARD ANGLECAMPUS BOARD FOR SALEBUILDING A CAMPUS BOARDDIY CAMPUS BOARD I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one REVIEW: ANTIHYDRAL: A SKIN DRYING AGENT FOR CLIMBERSTOPICAL DRYING AGENT FOR SKINTOPICAL DRYING AGENT FOR SKINANTI SKINNING AGENTBEST MEDICATION FOR SKIN RASHDRYING AGENTS FOR SKIN WOUNDSDRYING AGENTS FORSKIN WOUNDS
Sam Elias called it “a game changer.” Daniel Woods said it was “the secret to success.” Still, I was hesitant to try Antihydral—an extreme skin-drying agent from Germany that is used for overly sweaty hands (and feet).EVENING SENDS
Evening Sends is keeping rock climbing unfiltered. Stories, media, essays, The Day I Sent, rock climbing gear reviews and more by AndrewBisharat.
THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING SHOES Arguably one of the most important innovations in our sport is the climbing shoe. I’ve always said that my favorite gear to review are climbing shoes because it’s the only piece of equipment that actually makes a difference in your performance.. This is a great, interesting deep dive into the shoe’s history and its progression to today’s modern version. CLIMBING TERMS DEFINED Anchor: The two bolts, usually equipped with chains or fixed lowering gear, at the top of a route. The anchor is where the climb ends, and the goal in sport climbing is to reach the anchor without falling. Arete: This rock feature is an edge pointing out from the wall and defined by the joining of two planes of rock. An arete can be blunt,round, or sharp.
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEP If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a group of anonymous rogues removing routes and padlocking bolts on routes they don’t like in the middle of the night yielded a predictable result: the government had to step in and place a total ban on all new routing inthe area.
THE PURGE: LIES AND CALL-OUTS IN CLIMBING Climbing’s latest call out concerns Said Belhaj, a Swedish climber who was accused by the German photographer Hannes Huch of not sending Action Direct.. I wrote a profile of Said a few years ago for Rock and Ice magazine. We have taken trips around the world together over the years, to places like Spain and China, as well as a memorable trip to the Grampians with Chris Sharma. YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT There is actually very little evidence to support the idea that super-tight shoes increase performance. I recently finished reviewing the best new climbing shoes in 2021. At this point, I’ve tested more than half of the climbing shoes on the market. LOG IN | EVENING SENDS Climbing’s popular. What did you think would happen? May 11, 2021 | Essays & Opinion. Featured MOON BOARD, HANG BOARD, CAMPUS BOARD: A HOME GYM REVIEW I opted for the Beastmaker 1000 version, as opposed to the 2000 version. There are two ways to making hangboarding more challenging: making the holds smaller and adding weight. In my opinion, it’s far better to keep the hold at a small but “normal” size as opposed to just hanging off of credit-card edges.The bottom right edge on the Beastmaker 1000 is a perfect training edge, and one LET THE WEAKEST LEAD In 2012, Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster, and Josh Wharton took on one of the world’s most formidable mountains: Baintha Brakk (23,901 feet), AKA The Ogre. THE 5 BEST SPORTS BRAS FOR CLIMBING IN 2020 As much as I’d love to whip off my sweaty t-shirt and bask bare-chested in the sunshine, like every dude at the top of every hot approach, I just don’t quite have that chutzpah (yet!). So love ‘em or hate ‘em, a properly-fitting sports bra is still an everyday essential. These are my favorite low DAMN IT FEELS GOOD TO BE A LOCAL It’s good to know in trying times like these that there is someone out there brave enough to speak to the injustice of non-locals going near my boulders and crags. THE SCARPA DRAGO REVIEW: PERFORMANCE SENSITIVITY Last year I raved about the Scarpa Furia, at the time, the softest, highest-performing shoe I’ve ever tested.. Now it’s time to rave about the Scarpa Drago, easily my favorite shoe for sport-climbing and bouldering that I think I’ve ever worn.. Scarpa’s most stunning achievement, in my mind, is the Drago’s incredible soft sensitivity—it feels like you’re wearing a light rubber SCARPA FURIA S REVIEW The new Furia S is a softer iteration of the Furia, with some other great improvements as well.Whereas the original Furia had two bulky Velcro Straps, the Furia S has slimmed down to a single, thin Z-pull strap. I really like this change; it just makes the shoe feel even more high-performing and it’s easier to get on. COMFORTABLE PERFORMANCE: VUORI CLOTHING For the past year, my sweatpants of choice are the Vuori Balboa, which I bought on a whim from Backcountry as I’d never heard of the brand before. Since then, I’ve become totally obsessed with this brand, which produces high-end athletic clothing that doesn’t make you look like the last time you went shopping was at Sport’s Authority. LA SPORTIVA TESTAROSSA After 15-plus years of service, the legendary La Sportiva Testarossa has gotten a thoughtful update. While staying true to its roots, a few minor tweaks have improved fit and function without sacrificing the aggressive downturn and soft sole that has made this shoe a long-time favorite. The new Testarossa is constructed on the same last IS ALEX HONNOLD’S EL CAP FREE-SOLO THE GREATEST SPORTS Alex Honnold’s plans were no secret. We all knew free soloing El Capitan had been on his mind since the beginning of his climbing career; we just never knew when or even if this crazy idea might ever become a reality. At 9:28 a.m., Saturday, June 3, 2017,__
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Wednesday, August 21, 2019Evening Sends
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Culturé
a site about climbing* Feature Stories__
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NO COUNTRY FOR PRO CLIMBERSAndrew Bisharat -
June 5, 2018
THE DAY I SENT THE TITANAugust 29, 2018
PYD: DESERT TOWERS
September 27, 2018
PYD: COLORADO FRONT RANGE BOULDERINGJune 19, 2018
Trending Now
UNPOPULAR OPINION: DANIEL WOODS’ NECK TAT IS JUST WHAT CLIMBINGNEEDS
YOUR CLIMBING SHOES ARE TOO TIGHT THE DAY I SENT INDIAN FACE JOHN OLIVER DOES EVEREST ATHLETE OR MODEL: WHAT IS SIERRA BLAIR-COYLE?____
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BETA STICK REVIEW
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It's expensive, but nothing else compares to its compact sizeRead review
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PATAGONIA MICRO PUFF HOODY__________
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Down insulation is one of those little luxuries that has always elicted warm, fuzzy feelings for me. Down jackets have always...Read review
Helmets
PETZL BOREO
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Protecting your head, on all sides ...Read review
Packs
BLACK DIAMOND STONE DUFFEL 42__________
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The Black Diamond Stone Duffel is one of the least expensive ($90) yet most well-made and functional sport-climbing packs on themarket....
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ESSAYS & OPINIONS
Essays & Opinion
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEPAndrew Bisharat -
July 23, 2019
3
If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the...Read more
WHAT IF WE PUT ADAM ONDRA’S BRAIN IN DONALD TRUMP’S BODY?Essays & Opinion
Andrew
Bisharat - June 21,2019
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UNPOPULAR OPINION: DANIEL WOODS’ NECK TAT IS JUST WHAT CLIMBINGNEEDS
Essays & Opinion
Andrew
Bisharat - June 12,2019
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CONRAD ANKER AND THE POWER OF POSITIVITYEssays & Opinion
Conrad
Anker - November 4,2018
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NO COUNTRY FOR PRO CLIMBERSEssays & Opinion
Andrew
Bisharat - June 5,
2018
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DAILY STOKE
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MIKE LIBECKI: SOMETIMES SUCCES IS WALKING AWAY ALIVEAndrew Bisharat -
July 29, 2019
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There's no one like Mike Libecki. He's not just one of the greatest modern explorers of...Read more
PAUL ROBINSON: THE BEST BOULDER IN THE WORLD?Daily Stoke
Andrew Bisharat -
June 21, 2019
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BOULDERING BRIONE
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Andrew Bisharat -
May 30, 2019
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ADAM ONDRA OFFERS A MASTER CLASS IN ONSIGHTINGDaily Stoke
Andrew Bisharat -
January 2, 2019
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CHRIS SHARMA CLIMBS WITNESS THE FITNESSDaily Stoke
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December 27, 2018
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Andrew Bisharat -
August 20, 2019
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Where women climbers are strapped to find great-fitting sports bras, men are often at a loss to find great-fitting climbing pants....Read more
Daily Stoke
MIKE LIBECKI: SOMETIMES SUCCES IS WALKING AWAY ALIVEAndrew Bisharat -
July 29, 2019
0
There's no one like Mike Libecki. He's not just one of the greatest modern explorers of our time, but he's an...Read more
Essays & Opinion
THE CASE OF TEN SLEEPAndrew Bisharat -
July 23, 2019
3
If you’ve been following the chipping debacle in Ten Sleep Canyon, you will know that the childish skirmish that saw a...Read more
News
JOHN OLIVER DOES EVERESTAndrew Bisharat -
June 24, 2019
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It's hard to imagine John Oliver dedicating 20 whole minutes to Mount Everest, but he does it in a rollicking and typically...Read more
Essays & Opinion
WHAT IF WE PUT ADAM ONDRA’S BRAIN IN DONALD TRUMP’S BODY?Andrew Bisharat -
June 21, 2019
4
There are two types of climbers: those who take grades seriously and those who pretend not to care.Read more
Daily Stoke
PAUL ROBINSON: THE BEST BOULDER IN THE WORLD?Andrew Bisharat -
June 21, 2019
0
When you think of Indian Creek, bouldering is not the first thing that comes to mind, and yet it is here...Read more
Essays & Opinion
UNPOPULAR OPINION: DANIEL WOODS’ NECK TAT IS JUST WHAT CLIMBINGNEEDS
Andrew Bisharat -
June 12, 2019
3
Like many climbers on Instagram, I opened the app the other day and saw Daniel Woods’ latest post staring back at me....Read more
Gear Reviews
EDELWEISS PERFORMANCE 9.2MMAndrew Bisharat -
June 10, 2019
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This rope is one to rule them all. The Performance 9.2mm from Edelweiss is a solid piece of string that you can...Read more
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