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IS THAT BRA A DEMI, BALCONETTE, OR FULL CUP? • CLOTH HABIT And for some reason the term demi conjured up prrretty. I’m guessing that for some of us, a demi might anything that isn’t a full cup bra. “Demi” and even “balconette” are often used fairly loosely by retailers and designers which makes them even harder to pinpoint. All of the bras in the image at the top were ones thateither a
MAKING A FOAM CUP BRA: PART 1 • CLOTH HABIT Materials You Need. bra pattern. sheet foam, approximately 1/8 yard. materials and notions for making one bra. sheer or light tricot lining (optional, for making seam tape) manila folder, cardstock, or sturdy paper on which to re-trace some of your pattern pieces (avoid tissue–it is impossible on foam!) Patterns: To follow along withthese
WATSON BRA & BIKINI PATTERN Watson Bra & Bikini Pattern. This is a digital sewing pattern that is delivered as a zip file. Before using a tablet or smartphone to download, please read this. The Watson is a 70s-inspired lingerie set perfect for lounging or dressing up! The bra is a very easy-to-wear style with a plunge neckline and is designed for stretch fabrics inthe cups.
WHERE TO SHOP FOR BRA MAKING AND LINGERIE SUPPLIES Welcome fellow bra and lingerie sewing enthusiasts! This page lists shops around the world that sell lingerie supplies with a focus on bra making. What you can find here: Shops that offer international shipping. Shops that carry supplies (fabric, notions) for making lingerie and bras. It isn't a resource for bra patterns and I don't include them here. Disclaimer: Cloth Habit is not affiliated LINGERIE FRIDAY: THREAD TALES • CLOTH HABIT Ivory, dark grey, red, nude and a light grey have been great basics for most of my lingerie. The ivory blends into most pale warm colors. The light grey blends into most pale cool colors. The dark grey is good for blacks and very dark colors. When serging, it’s easiest to use wooly thread in the loopers and regular serger thread in theneedle.
MAKE A FOAM CUP BRA • CLOTH HABIT Learn how to make a bra with a foam cup lining! In this 3-part tutorial, you'll learn how to make a bra with a seamed foam lining. Many of these techniques can be used for adding foam to swimsuit cups, too! The pattern I used for demonstration was a custom drafted pattern, but these techniques work for any full-band bra. (To read about the difference between full band and partial band bras TEST YOUR STRETCH FABRIC • CLOTH HABIT Do you ever feel confused by stretch fabrics and what works best for a pattern? Many sewing patterns will often include in their fabric recommendations a certain stretch percent (such as 50% stretch), or a percent of spandex (such as 3% spandex). The percent of stretch is a bit more important so let's figure this out! How to Find the Stretch Percent of Fabric To To determine the stretch DIGGING INTO PATTERNMAKING AGAIN • CLOTH HABIT Digging into Patternmaking Again. About eight years ago, I dug out my dusty broken-bobbin-hole Brother machine after many years of not sewing. I sewed for much of my teens and made almost all of my clothes in college, but after that I went in tiny spurts–partly because I was able to afford nicer fashion than what I had been sewing. PATTERN DRAFTING WITH ILLUSTRATOR • CLOTH HABIT After my last post about pattern drafting I got so many great comments about the various programs you use, whether as a hobby or professionally. This subject definitely brings the patternmakers out of the woodwork! That makes me happy because I love patternmaking minds. I want to put you all in a room together so we can geek out on subjects like bone structure, sleeve caps, and pattern puzzles INTRODUCING THE HARRIET BRA PATTERN • CLOTH HABIT It’s here! I’m pleased to introduce you to Harriet, my newest bra pattern.. You may have heard me whisper or squeak about this patternin the last
CAN I LEAVE OUT UNDERWIRES? • CLOTH HABIT Many women don’t want to wear underwires for health or other personal reasons, but so much bra advice and bra making tutorials online focus on underwired bras. I hear ya! And here’s my short answer: many soft bras are designed exactly like an underwired bra, just without the wires. So yes, you can leave out the wires, and no,you don’t
HOW TO SEW BRA STRAPS • CLOTH HABIT Step 3: Finish Threading The Elastic. Slide a ring over the unstitched end of the elastic (which you can see in the above photo). Then bring the unstitched end up toward the slider, so that the plush sides are facing each other. Now thread your elastic up and through the slider like so: Keep pulling the unstitched end until you end up with a loop. VIDEO: AN EASY SEAM TAPE FOR BRAS • CLOTH HABIT Video: An Easy Seam Tape for Bras. There are many ways to finish bra cup seams and I love experimenting with different techniques. Most of the time I line bra cups with a sheer lining because I love the way lining feels and it’s an easy, neat way to hide cup seams. You can even line the insides of foam cups if the seams are bothering you. CLOTH HABIT • THOUGHTFUL SEWING TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNSBLOGSHOPTUTORIALSCLASSESABOUTHELP One thing I have always wished for in any textbook is more insight into production patternmaking–and what I mean by that is the process of creating patterns according to how they would be sewn in a factory. The seam allowances and markings (if shown at all) are generic in most patternmaking books, and I suspect a large part of that is because CLOTH HABITPATTERN HELPLADYSHORTS UNDERWEAR PATTERNMAKE A FOAM CUP BRALOG INBRA MAKING SEW ALONG Would you like tips and inspirations in the craft of lingerie sewing? Join my free newsletter, The Lingerie Maker. BRA MAKING SEW ALONG • CLOTH HABIT Learn to make your own bras! Since 2013 the Bra Making Sew Along has remained a popular resource for bra-making. The series walks through the basics of fitting and sewing your own bra pattern, and includes bonus tutorials on making design changes to a pattern. About the Patterns During this sew-along, we worked with patterns with a full frame--also known as a “full band” bra. You can WHERE TO SHOP FOR BRA MAKING AND LINGERIE SUPPLIES Welcome fellow bra and lingerie sewing enthusiasts! This page lists shops around the world that sell lingerie supplies with a focus on bra making. What you can find here: Shops that offer international shipping. Shops that carry supplies (fabric, notions) for making lingerie and bras. It isn't a resource for bra patterns and I don't include them here. Disclaimer: Cloth Habit is not affiliated BRA-MAKING SEW ALONG: MEASURING FOR FIT • CLOTH HABIT Hi Totty, sorry to hear that. The Danglez DB3 bra might be a good option for you. To find your European size and if your underwire still fits, take it out and compare it to this wire chart at Elingeria.The only difference between a 36J and a 38I (or a 90J and a 95I) in this pattern will be in the length of the band along the side. CAN I LEAVE OUT UNDERWIRES? • CLOTH HABIT Many women don’t want to wear underwires for health or other personal reasons, but so much bra advice and bra making tutorials online focus on underwired bras. I hear ya! And here’s my short answer: many soft bras are designed exactly like an underwired bra, just without the wires. So yes, you can leave out the wires, and no,you don’t
LINGERIE FRIDAY: THE ROSY LADYSHORTS PATTERN • CLOTH HABIT To make these, you need: 1 yard/meter lightweight stretch lace fabric (45-60″ wide) 1″ (1.25cm) elastic lace trim. little piece of light cotton knit for the liner. I originally designed the pattern around lightweight stretch lace that stretches from 60-70% comfortably. But there are tons of possibilities for fabrics–rayon or cotton jerseyHARRIET BRA PATTERN
Note: This pattern uses UK bra sizes. View the measuring guide (and here is a metric version) to find your size. (This is a digital sewing pattern.) Get ready for some oomph! Refinement meets support in the Harriet, an underwired bra designed to become a true foundation in your wardrobe--and your bra sewing adventures! The Harriet's classic style features a lovely balconette neckline IS THAT BRA A DEMI, BALCONETTE, OR FULL CUP? • CLOTH HABIT And for some reason the term demi conjured up prrretty. I’m guessing that for some of us, a demi might anything that isn’t a full cup bra. “Demi” and even “balconette” are often used fairly loosely by retailers and designers which makes them even harder to pinpoint. All of the bras in the image at the top were ones thateither a
WATSON BRA & BIKINI PATTERN Watson Bra & Bikini Pattern. This is a digital sewing pattern that is delivered as a zip file. Before using a tablet or smartphone to download, please read this. The Watson is a 70s-inspired lingerie set perfect for lounging or dressing up! The bra is a very easy-to-wear style with a plunge neckline and is designed for stretch fabrics inthe cups.
CLOTH HABIT • THOUGHTFUL SEWING TECHNIQUES AND PATTERNSBLOGSHOPTUTORIALSCLASSESABOUTHELP One thing I have always wished for in any textbook is more insight into production patternmaking–and what I mean by that is the process of creating patterns according to how they would be sewn in a factory. The seam allowances and markings (if shown at all) are generic in most patternmaking books, and I suspect a large part of that is because CLOTH HABITPATTERN HELPLADYSHORTS UNDERWEAR PATTERNMAKE A FOAM CUP BRALOG INBRA MAKING SEW ALONG Would you like tips and inspirations in the craft of lingerie sewing? Join my free newsletter, The Lingerie Maker. BRA MAKING SEW ALONG • CLOTH HABIT Learn to make your own bras! Since 2013 the Bra Making Sew Along has remained a popular resource for bra-making. The series walks through the basics of fitting and sewing your own bra pattern, and includes bonus tutorials on making design changes to a pattern. About the Patterns During this sew-along, we worked with patterns with a full frame--also known as a “full band” bra. You can WHERE TO SHOP FOR BRA MAKING AND LINGERIE SUPPLIES Welcome fellow bra and lingerie sewing enthusiasts! This page lists shops around the world that sell lingerie supplies with a focus on bra making. What you can find here: Shops that offer international shipping. Shops that carry supplies (fabric, notions) for making lingerie and bras. It isn't a resource for bra patterns and I don't include them here. Disclaimer: Cloth Habit is not affiliated BRA-MAKING SEW ALONG: MEASURING FOR FIT • CLOTH HABIT Hi Totty, sorry to hear that. The Danglez DB3 bra might be a good option for you. To find your European size and if your underwire still fits, take it out and compare it to this wire chart at Elingeria.The only difference between a 36J and a 38I (or a 90J and a 95I) in this pattern will be in the length of the band along the side. CAN I LEAVE OUT UNDERWIRES? • CLOTH HABIT Many women don’t want to wear underwires for health or other personal reasons, but so much bra advice and bra making tutorials online focus on underwired bras. I hear ya! And here’s my short answer: many soft bras are designed exactly like an underwired bra, just without the wires. So yes, you can leave out the wires, and no,you don’t
LINGERIE FRIDAY: THE ROSY LADYSHORTS PATTERN • CLOTH HABIT To make these, you need: 1 yard/meter lightweight stretch lace fabric (45-60″ wide) 1″ (1.25cm) elastic lace trim. little piece of light cotton knit for the liner. I originally designed the pattern around lightweight stretch lace that stretches from 60-70% comfortably. But there are tons of possibilities for fabrics–rayon or cotton jerseyHARRIET BRA PATTERN
Note: This pattern uses UK bra sizes. View the measuring guide (and here is a metric version) to find your size. (This is a digital sewing pattern.) Get ready for some oomph! Refinement meets support in the Harriet, an underwired bra designed to become a true foundation in your wardrobe--and your bra sewing adventures! The Harriet's classic style features a lovely balconette neckline IS THAT BRA A DEMI, BALCONETTE, OR FULL CUP? • CLOTH HABIT And for some reason the term demi conjured up prrretty. I’m guessing that for some of us, a demi might anything that isn’t a full cup bra. “Demi” and even “balconette” are often used fairly loosely by retailers and designers which makes them even harder to pinpoint. All of the bras in the image at the top were ones thateither a
WATSON BRA & BIKINI PATTERN Watson Bra & Bikini Pattern. This is a digital sewing pattern that is delivered as a zip file. Before using a tablet or smartphone to download, please read this. The Watson is a 70s-inspired lingerie set perfect for lounging or dressing up! The bra is a very easy-to-wear style with a plunge neckline and is designed for stretch fabrics inthe cups.
WHERE TO SHOP FOR BRA MAKING AND LINGERIE SUPPLIES Welcome fellow bra and lingerie sewing enthusiasts! This page lists shops around the world that sell lingerie supplies with a focus on bra making. What you can find here: Shops that offer international shipping. Shops that carry supplies (fabric, notions) for making lingerie and bras. It isn't a resource for bra patterns and I don't include them here. Disclaimer: Cloth Habit is not affiliated DRAFTING PATTERNS WITH SOFTWARE • CLOTH HABIT 3. Vector drawing software. While vector software is not created specifically for drafting, it is a wonderful tool that puts a highly accurate ruler and pen in your hand. With this kind of software, you draw the patterns as you wish. There are a lot of little tools within a vector program that speed up the process over paper drafting. BRA MAKING: ADD BONING TO A STRAPLESS BRA • CLOTH HABIT 2. Round off the ends of the boning with a nail file. This prevents sharp corners from poking through. You can also use your scissors to created rounded ends on the plastic—easy! 3. Now it’s time to add your channeling. Line up the channeling so that it is centered over your side seam and stitch down each side, leaving the ends open. SEWING MACHINES FOR LINGERIE • CLOTH HABIT 3. A 3-step zig-zag. This is a fairly common feature on mid-range and up machines, but many older and low-end machines don’t include it. A 3-step zig-zag (or triple zig-zag) takes 3 steps up and 3 steps down. For most lingerie and elastic, a regular zig-zag works just fine but a 3-step is extra strong, and useful for areas where you want MAKE A FOAM CUP BRA • CLOTH HABIT Learn how to make a bra with a foam cup lining! In this 3-part tutorial, you'll learn how to make a bra with a seamed foam lining. Many of these techniques can be used for adding foam to swimsuit cups, too! The pattern I used for demonstration was a custom drafted pattern, but these techniques work for any full-band bra. (To read about the difference between full band and partial band bras PATTERN DRAFTING WITH ILLUSTRATOR • CLOTH HABIT After my last post about pattern drafting I got so many great comments about the various programs you use, whether as a hobby or professionally. This subject definitely brings the patternmakers out of the woodwork! That makes me happy because I love patternmaking minds. I want to put you all in a room together so we can geek out on subjects like bone structure, sleeve caps, and pattern puzzles BRA SIZE CONVERSION CHART Bra Size Conversion Chart. The cup and band charts below are approximations of how sizes usually convert across different systems. For example, a 12DD AUS is approximately the same as a 34DD US, a 34DD UK, and a 75E EU. See the bottom of the page for more information onthe sizing in
DIGGING INTO PATTERNMAKING AGAIN • CLOTH HABIT Digging into Patternmaking Again. About eight years ago, I dug out my dusty broken-bobbin-hole Brother machine after many years of not sewing. I sewed for much of my teens and made almost all of my clothes in college, but after that I went in tiny spurts–partly because I was able to afford nicer fashion than what I had been sewing. TUTORIAL: HOW TO MOVE THE STRAPS ON THE HARRIET • CLOTH HABIT Alrighty, this tutorial has been a long time comin’! I’ve had many requests for a tutorial on how to move the straps on the Harriet. This adjustment can help improve your strap comfort if you have narrow or sloping shoulders, or if for any reason the straps feel too close toyour underarm.
HOW TO SEW LINGERIE ELASTIC • CLOTH HABIT We're almost ready to cut! Before we get to cutting or sewing, I thought it would be useful to review the basics in sewing lingerie elastic. It's very simple but you'll be doing it over and over again. If you are brand new to sewing elastic, you don’t need any special equipment, just your regular zig-zag foot. To make things easier to understand for beginners, I included a short video at theSkip to content
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* Where to Shop Bra Making Supplies TUTORIAL: HOW TO MOVE THE STRAPS ON THE HARRIET Alrighty, this tutorial has been a _long_ time comin’! I’ve had many requests for a tutorial on how to move the straps on the Harriet. This adjustment can help improve your strap comfort if you have narrow or sloping shoulders, or if for any reason the straps feel too close to your underarm. Let’s get those straps moved inward! But first let’s talk about bra strap positions in general…Read more
12 Comments
July 13, 2018
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* Bra Making
* Pattern Fitting
BELATED FOS: CUDDLY STONEHAVENHola, my friends!
As I sit here on my front porch on a sizzling of a July day (it’s afternoon, the concrete is fuming and the mosquitoes are outta control), I can think of nothing else but a big, fuzzy cardigan of thick insulating yarn.Right.
I’m just sweating thinking about it! Buut back in February I practically lived in it and it happens to be one of my favorite finished pieces of the last year. It’s been a long time since I posted some projects around here so I thought it was about time I checked in with my project queue. A couple years ago I finally got into the knitting game and it gave me something to do that I’ve probably always needed–a way to create without the pressure of finishing. Unfortunately it doesn’t take long to amass a yarn stash, and in a matter of six months from taking on my first knitting project I ended up with more yarn than I knew what to dowith.
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9 Comments July
6, 2018
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HOW TO MAKE UNDERWIRE ADJUSTMENTS FOR THE HARRIET I’ve been on a little bit of a Harriet binge lately, in part motivated by a desire to use up a bit of my precious lace stash. While recently sorting through some of my bins, I had my first experience of supplies gone bad–I found a few rusted rings and sliders and elastic that actually crumbled when I pulled it out of a bag. Despite my careful inclusions of silica gel packs in tightly sealed rubber bins, I’ve discovered that “aging stash” isn’t always a good thing! Anyway, this week I made the pattern in a 32G, and sometimes in the larger cup sizes I like to switch out to a wire with a narrower profile. The narrow wires I have happen to be a bit longer than the “regular” wires around which I drafted the pattern, so that also means I had to make some changes. I get a lot of questions about substituting wires so today I want to share a few tips on choosing and underwire–and what to do when the wire you want doesn’t fit into the size you choose.Read more
6 Comments
March 10, 2018
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* Pattern Fitting
BOOK REVIEW: SEWING TECHNIQUES FROM AN INDUSTRY PERSPECTIVE My favorite kind of sewing book is a patternmaking book, and I collect many, even in languages I don’t read. Every patternmaking book has a slightly different way of doing things so I hunt through them to find tidbits I might not see in another book. One thing I have always wished for in any textbook is more insight into production patternmaking–and what I mean by that is the process of creating patterns according to how they would be sewn in a factory. The seam allowances and markings (if shown at all) are generic in most patternmaking books, and I suspect a large part of that is because these are specifics that are learned on the job, not in a university where most textbooks have their market. However, I love making home sewing patterns a little more “production pattern” ready, if only because it often makes my sewing so much easier. And this is the kind of subject that deservesits own book.
Enter _Design Room Techniques_, a hunk of a workbook that fills the nichest niche for those wanting to learn more about production sewingand patterns.
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11 Comments
February 16, 2018
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* Books & Reviews
* Patternmaking
CAN I LEAVE OUT UNDERWIRES? _Do I really need to use underwires?_ _And can I just leave them out?_ Or: _Can you help me find a pattern that doesn’t use underwires?_ I get these questions quite a bit. Many women don’t want to wear underwires for health or other personal reasons, but so much bra advice and bra making tutorials online focus on underwired bras. Ihear ya!
And here’s my short answer: many soft bras are designed _exactly like an underwired bra_, just without the wires. So yes, you can leave out the wires, and no, you don’t need a different pattern.Read more
10 Comments
January 16, 2018
Posted in:
* Bra Making
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