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bigger).
A QUICK NOTE: IT'S SKÅL OR SKOAL, BUT NOT SKAL Sorry for the confusion, everyone! We have been honoring the true Swedish spelling of the word skål, using an “a” with a small “o” sitting above it. This has caused some questions as to whether it’s skoal or skal. The definitive answer: “ skoal ” is acceptable, but using “skal” is SIMPLE AGAR CLARIFICATION: 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY, PLUS A Hi Chris, bentonite might work somewhat, but it is a slightly diferent mechanism. This clay has a very high absorbence for proteins, thus it is used primarily in white wine production to absorb proteins that otherwise would be soluble. GIANT LOBSTERS AND THEIR PUNY BRETHREN. PLUS, A WILD Larger, older, females have vastly more eggs and can produce vastly more offspring than younger, smaller, lobsters. The very large lobsters for sale in Cape Cod – including the one I was eyeing — are taken by divers, not caught in traps, and are males. I handed overmy $139.
CITRUS LUNACY ON GENE LESTER’S RANCH: ATTACK OF THE ACID Gene Lester is a collector. At his ranch in Watsonville, CA he collects wood specimens, classical music recordings, pre-war Fords, avocado trees, and citrus. At over 200 varieties, his private collection of citrus tree is the most impressive in the US. Every March, Mr. Lester invites the California Rare Fruit Growers Association out for a day AGAR CLARIFICATION MADE STUPID-SIMPLE: BEST TECHNIQUE YET Instructions. 1.) Measure out 500 grams cold OJ, 250 grams cold OJ, and 1.5 grams of Telephone brand Agar (0.2% of total juice weight). 2.) Whisk the agar into the 250 grams of cold juice to disperse the agar then heat to a boil while stirring and allow to simmer a MARGARITAVILLE WITH SCIENCE: AGAVE NECTAR VS SIMPLE SYRUP. The results: The two drinks were vastly different. The consensus was that the agave nectar drink was deeper, more complex, had a longer finish, and was more tequila-y (in the sense of blanco tequila), than the simple syrup one. The simple syrup was deemed cleaner and fresher tasting. Three people said they outright preferred the agave nectar THE QUEST FOR FRENCH FRY SUPREMACY 2: BLANCHING ARMAGEDDON by Dave Arnold. Strap yourself in and get ready to keep track of many tastings. For some French Fry background, see the previous post FF Supremacy Part 1.We use a blanch-dry-fry-fry technique; this post investigates the ins and outs of pre-blanching, blanching, and drying. MEASURING TEMPERATURE: THERMOCOUPLES MADE EASY AND CHEAP posted by Dave Arnold. Cooks love their thermometers. Thermocouple thermometers are especially loved because they are rugged, can measure extreme temperature ranges, have a wide range of available probes, and are fairly accurate once calibrated properly. PRESSURE COOKED STOCK 2: CHANGING PRESSURES, PLAYING WITH Test Number 1, Changing Pressures . We ran this test on previously prepared stocks so we could eliminate ingredient variables. The tests discussed in our first pressure post indicate that pressure cooking a previously prepared stock produces similar results GONNA BUILD ME A ROTOVAP Well that is an interesting question Shoshana. The capacity of the base is about 3-3.5 liters (for legal reasons I can’t make it muchbigger).
A QUICK NOTE: IT'S SKÅL OR SKOAL, BUT NOT SKAL Sorry for the confusion, everyone! We have been honoring the true Swedish spelling of the word skål, using an “a” with a small “o” sitting above it. This has caused some questions as to whether it’s skoal or skal. The definitive answer: “ skoal ” is acceptable, but using “skal” is SIMPLE AGAR CLARIFICATION: 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY, PLUS A Hi Chris, bentonite might work somewhat, but it is a slightly diferent mechanism. This clay has a very high absorbence for proteins, thus it is used primarily in white wine production to absorb proteins that otherwise would be soluble. GIANT LOBSTERS AND THEIR PUNY BRETHREN. PLUS, A WILD Larger, older, females have vastly more eggs and can produce vastly more offspring than younger, smaller, lobsters. The very large lobsters for sale in Cape Cod – including the one I was eyeing — are taken by divers, not caught in traps, and are males. I handed overmy $139.
MEASURING TEMPERATURE: THERMOCOUPLES MADE EASY AND CHEAP posted by Dave Arnold. Cooks love their thermometers. Thermocouple thermometers are especially loved because they are rugged, can measure extreme temperature ranges, have a wide range of available probes, and are fairly accurate once calibrated properly. PURDY PICTURES: THE CHARTS Purdy Pictures: The Charts. Here are some fancy charts we made for sous-vide and low-temperature cooking. All of these images are available at higher resolution: here. What sous-vide hanger steak looks like at various temperatures. Salmon cooked at various temperatures. Interesting: fish often go through two zones of goodness: a low temp zone FISH ANESTHESIOLOGISTS It has one bad property: it isn’t approved in the United States. Fish anesthesia. Left is pre-dose. Fish is normal. On right, 10 minutes after administering 17mg/liter isoeugenol. Fish has lost equilibrium and is knocked out but still breathing on its own. We can’t buy Aqui-S, but we can buy isoeugenol, so we did. Aqui-S is50% isoeugenol.
COOKING ISSUES
Cooking Issues will be broadcasting live on the Heritage Radio Network tomorrow (Tuesday) from noon to 12:45 EST. We’ll answer all of your cooking issues via phone and/or email. Give us a call at the Heritage studio at 718-497-2128 or email Nastassia at lopez.nastassia@gmail.com and we’ll answer as many questions as we can.. Thanks for listening! TRANSGLUTAMINASE, AKA MEAT GLUE Transglutaminase (TG or TGase), better known to chefs as “Meat Glue,” has the amazing ability to bond protein-containing foods together. Raw meats bound with TG are often strong enough to be handled as if they were whole uncut muscles. TG is safe, natural, and easy to use. In the kitchen, TG is primarily used to: SIMPLE AGAR CLARIFICATION: 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY, PLUS A Hi Chris, bentonite might work somewhat, but it is a slightly diferent mechanism. This clay has a very high absorbence for proteins, thus it is used primarily in white wine production to absorb proteins that otherwise would be soluble. PRESSURE COOKED STOCK 2: CHANGING PRESSURES, PLAYING WITH Test Number 1, Changing Pressures . We ran this test on previously prepared stocks so we could eliminate ingredient variables. The tests discussed in our first pressure post indicate that pressure cooking a previously prepared stock produces similar results JAPANESE FISH-KILLING: IKE JIME SMACKDOWN PART 2 The theory is that the rigor in the Ike Jime fish will resolve into a better texture the next day. Black sea bass, no bleed on bottom, Japanese-bled on left, Ike Jime on right. The black sea bass had the least difference between the types. It also had the least FAKE FRYABLE, BRÛLÉE-ABLE SALEP DONDURMA ICE CREAM: A Here is the recipe for our fake Salep. This version is flavored with tea. Fake Fryable, Brûlée-able Salep Darjeeling Dondurma . 24 grams Singell Darjeeling tea leaves (A second flush Darjeeling from Harney and Sons with a fruity, muscatel note) 500 grams cold milk COCKTAILS: THE SCIENCE OF SHAKING Posted by Dave Arnold. Last week I participated in a seminar at Tales of the Cocktail entitled, “The Science of Shaking.” The panel was put together by moderator Eben Klemm (head of bar programs for the B. R. Guest restaurant empire, well-known innovative cocktail guy, and former biologist) with Alex Day (famed bartender from Death & Company and Franklin Bar) and myself as panelists. AGAR CLARIFICATION MADE STUPID-SIMPLE: BEST TECHNIQUE YET Instructions. 1.) Measure out 500 grams cold OJ, 250 grams cold OJ, and 1.5 grams of Telephone brand Agar (0.2% of total juice weight). 2.) Whisk the agar into the 250 grams of cold juice to disperse the agar then heat to a boil while stirring and allow to simmer a PURDY PICTURES: THE CHARTS Purdy Pictures: The Charts. Here are some fancy charts we made for sous-vide and low-temperature cooking. All of these images are available at higher resolution: here. What sous-vide hanger steak looks like at various temperatures. Salmon cooked at various temperatures. Interesting: fish often go through two zones of goodness: a low temp zone MARGARITAVILLE WITH SCIENCE: AGAVE NECTAR VS SIMPLE SYRUP.SUBSTITUTE FOR AGAVE NECTAR SYRUPAGAVE SYRUP BAD FOR YOUSUBSTITUTE AGAVE SYRUPFOR SUGAR
The results: The two drinks were vastly different. The consensus was that the agave nectar drink was deeper, more complex, had a longer finish, and was more tequila-y (in the sense of blanco tequila), than the simple syrup one. The simple syrup was deemed cleaner and fresher tasting. Three people said they outright preferred the agave nectar THE QUEST FOR FRENCH FRY SUPREMACY 2: BLANCHING ARMAGEDDON by Dave Arnold. Strap yourself in and get ready to keep track of many tastings. For some French Fry background, see the previous post FF Supremacy Part 1.We use a blanch-dry-fry-fry technique; this post investigates the ins and outs of pre-blanching, blanching, and drying. MEASURING TEMPERATURE: THERMOCOUPLES MADE EASY AND CHEAP posted by Dave Arnold. Cooks love their thermometers. Thermocouple thermometers are especially loved because they are rugged, can measure extreme temperature ranges, have a wide range of available probes, and are fairly accurate once calibrated properly. SIMPLE AGAR CLARIFICATION: 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY, PLUS A Hi Chris, bentonite might work somewhat, but it is a slightly diferent mechanism. This clay has a very high absorbence for proteins, thus it is used primarily in white wine production to absorb proteins that otherwise would be soluble. PRESSURE COOKED STOCK 2: CHANGING PRESSURES, PLAYING WITH Test Number 1, Changing Pressures . We ran this test on previously prepared stocks so we could eliminate ingredient variables. The tests discussed in our first pressure post indicate that pressure cooking a previously prepared stock produces similar results CITRUS LUNACY ON GENE LESTER’S RANCH: ATTACK OF THE ACID Gene Lester is a collector. At his ranch in Watsonville, CA he collects wood specimens, classical music recordings, pre-war Fords, avocado trees, and citrus. At over 200 varieties, his private collection of citrus tree is the most impressive in the US. Every March, Mr. Lester invites the California Rare Fruit Growers Association out for a day GONNA BUILD ME A ROTOVAP Well that is an interesting question Shoshana. The capacity of the base is about 3-3.5 liters (for legal reasons I can’t make it muchbigger).
GIANT LOBSTERS AND THEIR PUNY BRETHREN. PLUS, A WILD Larger, older, females have vastly more eggs and can produce vastly more offspring than younger, smaller, lobsters. The very large lobsters for sale in Cape Cod – including the one I was eyeing — are taken by divers, not caught in traps, and are males. I handed overmy $139.
AGAR CLARIFICATION MADE STUPID-SIMPLE: BEST TECHNIQUE YET Instructions. 1.) Measure out 500 grams cold OJ, 250 grams cold OJ, and 1.5 grams of Telephone brand Agar (0.2% of total juice weight). 2.) Whisk the agar into the 250 grams of cold juice to disperse the agar then heat to a boil while stirring and allow to simmer a PURDY PICTURES: THE CHARTS Purdy Pictures: The Charts. Here are some fancy charts we made for sous-vide and low-temperature cooking. All of these images are available at higher resolution: here. What sous-vide hanger steak looks like at various temperatures. Salmon cooked at various temperatures. Interesting: fish often go through two zones of goodness: a low temp zone MARGARITAVILLE WITH SCIENCE: AGAVE NECTAR VS SIMPLE SYRUP.SUBSTITUTE FOR AGAVE NECTAR SYRUPAGAVE SYRUP BAD FOR YOUSUBSTITUTE AGAVE SYRUPFOR SUGAR
The results: The two drinks were vastly different. The consensus was that the agave nectar drink was deeper, more complex, had a longer finish, and was more tequila-y (in the sense of blanco tequila), than the simple syrup one. The simple syrup was deemed cleaner and fresher tasting. Three people said they outright preferred the agave nectar THE QUEST FOR FRENCH FRY SUPREMACY 2: BLANCHING ARMAGEDDON by Dave Arnold. Strap yourself in and get ready to keep track of many tastings. For some French Fry background, see the previous post FF Supremacy Part 1.We use a blanch-dry-fry-fry technique; this post investigates the ins and outs of pre-blanching, blanching, and drying. MEASURING TEMPERATURE: THERMOCOUPLES MADE EASY AND CHEAP posted by Dave Arnold. Cooks love their thermometers. Thermocouple thermometers are especially loved because they are rugged, can measure extreme temperature ranges, have a wide range of available probes, and are fairly accurate once calibrated properly. SIMPLE AGAR CLARIFICATION: 1 YEAR ANNIVERSARY, PLUS A Hi Chris, bentonite might work somewhat, but it is a slightly diferent mechanism. This clay has a very high absorbence for proteins, thus it is used primarily in white wine production to absorb proteins that otherwise would be soluble. PRESSURE COOKED STOCK 2: CHANGING PRESSURES, PLAYING WITH Test Number 1, Changing Pressures . We ran this test on previously prepared stocks so we could eliminate ingredient variables. The tests discussed in our first pressure post indicate that pressure cooking a previously prepared stock produces similar results CITRUS LUNACY ON GENE LESTER’S RANCH: ATTACK OF THE ACID Gene Lester is a collector. At his ranch in Watsonville, CA he collects wood specimens, classical music recordings, pre-war Fords, avocado trees, and citrus. At over 200 varieties, his private collection of citrus tree is the most impressive in the US. Every March, Mr. Lester invites the California Rare Fruit Growers Association out for a day GONNA BUILD ME A ROTOVAP Well that is an interesting question Shoshana. The capacity of the base is about 3-3.5 liters (for legal reasons I can’t make it muchbigger).
GIANT LOBSTERS AND THEIR PUNY BRETHREN. PLUS, A WILD Larger, older, females have vastly more eggs and can produce vastly more offspring than younger, smaller, lobsters. The very large lobsters for sale in Cape Cod – including the one I was eyeing — are taken by divers, not caught in traps, and are males. I handed overmy $139.
ABOUT – COOKING ISSUES Arnold is an award-winning food writer and contributing editor for equipment and food science at Food Arts, and he lectures around the country at universities and industry conferences. He has been featured in Food & Wine, Time, the New York Times, the New York Times Magazine, Esquire, the Economist and Popular Science, among other publications. PRIMERS – COOKING ISSUES Primers. Nitty gritty, down and dirty technical guides. We’ll keep adding, so check back soon. Liquid Nitrogen in the Kitchen. Transglutaminase, aka Meat Glue. Hydrocolloids. Rotary Evaporation in the Kitchen. Low-Temperature and Sous-Vide Primer. Purdy Pictures: TheCharts.
PRIMERS - COOKING ISSUES Primers. Nitty gritty, down and dirty technical guides. We’ll keep adding, so check back soon. Liquid Nitrogen in the Kitchen. Transglutaminase, aka Meat Glue. Hydrocolloids. Rotary Evaporation in the Kitchen. Low-Temperature and Sous-Vide Primer. Purdy Pictures: TheCharts.
PURDY PICTURES: THE CHARTS Purdy Pictures: The Charts. Here are some fancy charts we made for sous-vide and low-temperature cooking. All of these images are available at higher resolution: here. What sous-vide hanger steak looks like at various temperatures. Salmon cooked at various temperatures. Interesting: fish often go through two zones of goodness: a low temp zone FISH ANESTHESIOLOGISTS It has one bad property: it isn’t approved in the United States. Fish anesthesia. Left is pre-dose. Fish is normal. On right, 10 minutes after administering 17mg/liter isoeugenol. Fish has lost equilibrium and is knocked out but still breathing on its own. We can’t buy Aqui-S, but we can buy isoeugenol, so we did. Aqui-S is50% isoeugenol.
TRANSGLUTAMINASE, AKA MEAT GLUE Transglutaminase (TG or TGase), better known to chefs as “Meat Glue,” has the amazing ability to bond protein-containing foods together. Raw meats bound with TG are often strong enough to be handled as if they were whole uncut muscles. TG is safe, natural, and easy to use. In the kitchen, TG is primarily used to: CITRUS LUNACY ON GENE LESTER’S RANCH: ATTACK OF THE ACID Gene Lester is a collector. At his ranch in Watsonville, CA he collects wood specimens, classical music recordings, pre-war Fords, avocado trees, and citrus. At over 200 varieties, his private collection of citrus tree is the most impressive in the US. Every March, Mr. Lester invites the California Rare Fruit Growers Association out for a day COCKTAILS: THE SCIENCE OF SHAKING Posted by Dave Arnold. Last week I participated in a seminar at Tales of the Cocktail entitled, “The Science of Shaking.” The panel was put together by moderator Eben Klemm (head of bar programs for the B. R. Guest restaurant empire, well-known innovative cocktail guy, and former biologist) with Alex Day (famed bartender from Death & Company and Franklin Bar) and myself as panelists.MOKUME-GANE FISH
Mokume-Gane is a form of Japanese metalworking that takes different (colored) metals, fuses them into a single piece (billet), cuts out channels and chunks of the fused metal, then bends and molds the carved billet into stunning decorative pieces. The end product is metal with a wood-grain effect. Dave had been obsessed with themetalworking
JAPANESE FISH-KILLING: IKE JIME SMACKDOWN PART 2 The theory is that the rigor in the Ike Jime fish will resolve into a better texture the next day. Black sea bass, no bleed on bottom, Japanese-bled on left, Ike Jime on right. The black sea bass had the least difference between the types. It also had the leastSkip to content
COOKING ISSUES
The International Culinary Center's Tech 'N Stuff Blog* About
* SKOAL! ►
* WANTED: Celebrity Skåls* The Skoal Project
* Primers ►
* Hydrocolloids Primer * Liquid Nitrogen Primer * Rotary Evaporation in the Kitchen * Transglutaminase, aka Meat Glue * Low-Temperature and Sous-Vide Primer ► * Purdy Pictures: The Charts * Part I. Introduction to Low-Temperature Cooking and Sous-Vide * Part II. Low-Temperature Cooking Without a Vacuum* Press
* Radio
* About
* SKOAL!
* WANTED: Celebrity Skåls* The Skoal Project
* Primers
* Hydrocolloids Primer * Liquid Nitrogen Primer * Rotary Evaporation in the Kitchen * Transglutaminase, aka Meat Glue * Low-Temperature and Sous-Vide Primer * Purdy Pictures: The Charts * Part I. Introduction to Low-Temperature Cooking and Sous-Vide * Part II. Low-Temperature Cooking Without a Vacuum* Press
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THE SEARZALL: NOW ON KICKSTARTER Posted on November 29, 2013July 30, 2014by Paul Adams
by Paul Adams You’ve been waiting for months for the Searzall hand-held power broiler. Here it is! Contribute on Kickstarter today!Continue Reading
Posted in UncategorizedTagged searzall
5 Comments on The Searzall:Now On Kickstarter
NEW TECHNIQUE: PRESSURE PICKLE AND THE CUCUMBER MARTINI Posted on August 3, 2013July 30, 2014by Paul Adams
by Dave Arnold If you have a chamber vacuum sealer, you can use the vacuum to do a kind of rapid pickling, forcing a liquid (such as gin) into a solid (such as cucumber). If you don’t have a chamber vacuum sealer, that’s been a hard trick to pull off. I use an ISI whipperContinue Reading
Posted in cocktails ,vacuum infusion
RECIPE QUEST: SHEAR-THICKENING STARCH NOODLES Posted on April 29, 2013July 30, 2014by Paul Adams
by Paul Adams Last week, the landlord of this blog spotted an intriguing video online of a man in China making noodles. Look at that. The guy’s got a big bowl of white non-Newtonian goo. When he smacks it or squeezes it, it’s as firm as clay, but when he leaves it alone, it’s fluidContinue Reading
Posted in UncategorizedTagged glass
noodles , japchae
, noodles
17 Comments on Recipe Quest: Shear-Thickening Starch Noodles PATENT PENDING: THE SEARZALL Posted on March 17, 2013July 30, 2014by Paul Adams
by Paul Adams Finishing a dish by convecting the hell out of it with a blowtorch is so primally satisfying — thousands of degrees, high-velocity open flame, instant gratification as the food transforms in seconds before your eyes. Raw power! But, apart from the thrill, a torch is kind of limitedContinue Reading
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Tagged flame
, inventions
, propane
, searing
, torch
91 Comments on Patent Pending:the Searzall
DRINKING WITH DAVE: THE BANGKOK DAIQUIRI Posted on February 27, 2013July 30, 2014by Paul Adams
by Paul Adams Welcome back to Cooking Issues. It’s been a while. The blog here got a little bit snowed under with male-enhancement spam while the staff’s attention was on other things, but I volunteered to come shovel it out–I spend my days at Popular Science–and now posting shall resume! What’s Dave been busy with?Continue Reading
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Drinking With Dave: The Bangkok DaiquiriPOSTS NAVIGATION
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