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PERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. THE (17) BESPOKE SHOEMAKERS I HAVE KNOWN Hey Jordan, Yes, like anything bespoke the second one will inevitably fit better than the first. The first one may be hugely better than any other shoe you have, but the maker will always learn something about you from that process of making the first shoe, such that the second one is an improvement, however big. WHAT ARE THE BEST CHEAPER SHOE BRANDS? Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. €200, €240, €170. This is the next level down of Spanish brands, more on a par with the Swedish start-ups in terms of quality, but much bigger organisations. “Sendra is a factory that makes for a lot of cheaper start-ups, because they’re so flexible and have no minimums. HATS WITH COATS: A SLIDING SCALE The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora is smarter than a cap, which is smarter than a beanie. But, some of them do cover a greater part of that scale than others. A good, neat watch cap for example, can work with everything from a navy overcoat to a blouson. Whereas a brimmed hat is more limited. BEMBERG, CUPRO, ERMEZINE: THE GUIDE TO LININGS The vast majority of suit linings are made from cupro (short for cuprammonium, also known by the brand name Bemberg) or ermazine (viscose rayon). Both are semi-synthetics, the former being made from cotton extract and the latter from wood pulp (cellulose). Cupro is a little softer to the touch, and ermazine is tougher. HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS) Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations) There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg. The stand out was always The Vintage Showroom, but IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option EDWARD SEXTON OFFSHORE BESPOKE SUIT: REVIEW This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels bespoke. Any reader that normally buys ready-made suits, or most made-to-measure, would feelJOHN SIMONS
One big name in that list is John Simons, the Ivy League outfitter who has been running shops in London since the 1960s, and still has a store on Chiltern Street. Today the shop is largely run by his son, Paul, and they are currently revamping the website - which will make it easier for those outside London to browse the Ivy-obsessed craft ITALY’S MILLS AND MERCHANTS EXPLAINED This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simpler, as tPERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. THE (17) BESPOKE SHOEMAKERS I HAVE KNOWN Hey Jordan, Yes, like anything bespoke the second one will inevitably fit better than the first. The first one may be hugely better than any other shoe you have, but the maker will always learn something about you from that process of making the first shoe, such that the second one is an improvement, however big. WHAT ARE THE BEST CHEAPER SHOE BRANDS? Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. €200, €240, €170. This is the next level down of Spanish brands, more on a par with the Swedish start-ups in terms of quality, but much bigger organisations. “Sendra is a factory that makes for a lot of cheaper start-ups, because they’re so flexible and have no minimums. HATS WITH COATS: A SLIDING SCALE The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora is smarter than a cap, which is smarter than a beanie. But, some of them do cover a greater part of that scale than others. A good, neat watch cap for example, can work with everything from a navy overcoat to a blouson. Whereas a brimmed hat is more limited. BEMBERG, CUPRO, ERMEZINE: THE GUIDE TO LININGS The vast majority of suit linings are made from cupro (short for cuprammonium, also known by the brand name Bemberg) or ermazine (viscose rayon). Both are semi-synthetics, the former being made from cotton extract and the latter from wood pulp (cellulose). Cupro is a little softer to the touch, and ermazine is tougher. HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS) Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations) There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg. The stand out was always The Vintage Showroom, but IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option EDWARD SEXTON OFFSHORE BESPOKE SUIT: REVIEW This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels bespoke. Any reader that normally buys ready-made suits, or most made-to-measure, would feelJOHN SIMONS
One big name in that list is John Simons, the Ivy League outfitter who has been running shops in London since the 1960s, and still has a store on Chiltern Street. Today the shop is largely run by his son, Paul, and they are currently revamping the website - which will make it easier for those outside London to browse the Ivy-obsessed craft ITALY’S MILLS AND MERCHANTS EXPLAINED This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simpler, as t BRANDS – PERMANENT STYLE February 1 st 2016. Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first PS (SHORTER) SHORTS ARE BACK The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches shorter than the previousiteration.
HATS WITH COATS: A SLIDING SCALE The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora is smarter than a cap, which is smarter than a beanie. But, some of them do cover a greater part of that scale than others. A good, neat watch cap for example, can work with everything from a navy overcoat to a blouson. Whereas a brimmed hat is more limited. DIEGO’S – PERMANENT STYLE About. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. REMOTE, MANUFACTURED BESPOKE BOOTS FROM CARREDUCKER I've known Deborah Carré and James Ducker (below)for many years, having first covered their workshops when they were at Cockpit Arts (those pictures of me and Luke!), then the opening of their service at Gieves & Hawkes, and more recently tried the saddle stitching in their new space at Chocolate Studios.. We also made a great film together last year, discussing the industry with some THE GUIDE TO TROUSER CLOTHS This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics.Available in the menu under ‘Guides’ and here.. Pale-grey high-twist trousers. What makes a good trouser? BLACKHORSE LANE MADE-TO-MEASURE JEANS About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the way. SUIT STYLE 7: A GUIDE TO PLEATS ON TROUSERS Another variation is the kissing pleat, where the excess material is gathered between two sides of material. Although this might seem to be the best of both worlds – in terms of keeping both sides of the trouser leg clean – it does mean you lose the attractive sharpness of the pleat running down into the crease of the trouser. NICOLA CORNACCHIA GREY SUMMER SUIT: REVIEW Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review. This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was coldand wet and
HOW TO STRETCH A SWEATER Simon, In a comment or an article here a while ago (I forget when and where) you mentioned a few projects that were in the works. One was bespoke casual wear, and your G&H leather jacket is I think what you were talking about there, but another projectPERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. THE (17) BESPOKE SHOEMAKERS I HAVE KNOWN Hey Jordan, Yes, like anything bespoke the second one will inevitably fit better than the first. The first one may be hugely better than any other shoe you have, but the maker will always learn something about you from that process of making the first shoe, such that the second one is an improvement, however big. WHAT ARE THE BEST CHEAPER SHOE BRANDS? Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. €200, €240, €170. This is the next level down of Spanish brands, more on a par with the Swedish start-ups in terms of quality, but much bigger organisations. “Sendra is a factory that makes for a lot of cheaper start-ups, because they’re so flexible and have no minimums. HATS WITH COATS: A SLIDING SCALE The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora is smarter than a cap, which is smarter than a beanie. But, some of them do cover a greater part of that scale than others. A good, neat watch cap for example, can work with everything from a navy overcoat to a blouson. Whereas a brimmed hat is more limited. HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS) Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations) There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg. The stand out was always The Vintage Showroom, but BEMBERG, CUPRO, ERMEZINE: THE GUIDE TO LININGS The vast majority of suit linings are made from cupro (short for cuprammonium, also known by the brand name Bemberg) or ermazine (viscose rayon). Both are semi-synthetics, the former being made from cotton extract and the latter from wood pulp (cellulose). Cupro is a little softer to the touch, and ermazine is tougher. IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option EDWARD SEXTON OFFSHORE BESPOKE SUIT: REVIEW This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels bespoke. Any reader that normally buys ready-made suits, or most made-to-measure, would feelJOHN SIMONS
One big name in that list is John Simons, the Ivy League outfitter who has been running shops in London since the 1960s, and still has a store on Chiltern Street. Today the shop is largely run by his son, Paul, and they are currently revamping the website - which will make it easier for those outside London to browse the Ivy-obsessed craft ITALY’S MILLS AND MERCHANTS EXPLAINED This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simpler, as tPERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. THE (17) BESPOKE SHOEMAKERS I HAVE KNOWN Hey Jordan, Yes, like anything bespoke the second one will inevitably fit better than the first. The first one may be hugely better than any other shoe you have, but the maker will always learn something about you from that process of making the first shoe, such that the second one is an improvement, however big. WHAT ARE THE BEST CHEAPER SHOE BRANDS? Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. €200, €240, €170. This is the next level down of Spanish brands, more on a par with the Swedish start-ups in terms of quality, but much bigger organisations. “Sendra is a factory that makes for a lot of cheaper start-ups, because they’re so flexible and have no minimums. HATS WITH COATS: A SLIDING SCALE The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora is smarter than a cap, which is smarter than a beanie. But, some of them do cover a greater part of that scale than others. A good, neat watch cap for example, can work with everything from a navy overcoat to a blouson. Whereas a brimmed hat is more limited. HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS) Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations) There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg. The stand out was always The Vintage Showroom, but BEMBERG, CUPRO, ERMEZINE: THE GUIDE TO LININGS The vast majority of suit linings are made from cupro (short for cuprammonium, also known by the brand name Bemberg) or ermazine (viscose rayon). Both are semi-synthetics, the former being made from cotton extract and the latter from wood pulp (cellulose). Cupro is a little softer to the touch, and ermazine is tougher. IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option EDWARD SEXTON OFFSHORE BESPOKE SUIT: REVIEW This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly feels bespoke. Any reader that normally buys ready-made suits, or most made-to-measure, would feelJOHN SIMONS
One big name in that list is John Simons, the Ivy League outfitter who has been running shops in London since the 1960s, and still has a store on Chiltern Street. Today the shop is largely run by his son, Paul, and they are currently revamping the website - which will make it easier for those outside London to browse the Ivy-obsessed craft ITALY’S MILLS AND MERCHANTS EXPLAINED This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simpler, as t BRANDS – PERMANENT STYLE February 1 st 2016. Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first HATS WITH COATS: A SLIDING SCALE The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora is smarter than a cap, which is smarter than a beanie. But, some of them do cover a greater part of that scale than others. A good, neat watch cap for example, can work with everything from a navy overcoat to a blouson. Whereas a brimmed hat is more limited. PS (SHORTER) SHORTS ARE BACK The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches shorter than the previousiteration.
DIEGO’S – PERMANENT STYLE About. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. THE GUIDE TO TROUSER CLOTHS This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics.Available in the menu under ‘Guides’ and here.. Pale-grey high-twist trousers. What makes a good trouser? BLACKHORSE LANE MADE-TO-MEASURE JEANS About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the way. THE GUIDE TO SUMMER SHIRT FABRICS The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a shirt fabric for the SUIT STYLE 7: A GUIDE TO PLEATS ON TROUSERS Another variation is the kissing pleat, where the excess material is gathered between two sides of material. Although this might seem to be the best of both worlds – in terms of keeping both sides of the trouser leg clean – it does mean you lose the attractive sharpness of the pleat running down into the crease of the trouser. NICOLA CORNACCHIA GREY SUMMER SUIT: REVIEW Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review. This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was coldand wet and
HOW TO STRETCH A SWEATER Simon, In a comment or an article here a while ago (I forget when and where) you mentioned a few projects that were in the works. One was bespoke casual wear, and your G&H leather jacket is I think what you were talking about there, but another projectPERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. WW CHAN – PERMANENT STYLE Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong. Read More. March 28 th 2012. WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The Armoury Hi Simon, As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespokeuntil I
NICOLA CORNACCHIA GREY SUMMER SUIT: REVIEW Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review. This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was coldand wet and
IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option JAPANESE SHOEMAKERS: YOHEI FUKUDA, MARQUESS, YUKIJAPANESE SHOE BRANDS MENJAPANESE SHOE SITESBESPOKE SHOEMAKERS IN USAJAPANESE DRESS SHOESJAPANESE SHOE STOREJAPANESE SHOES MEN Yokei Fukuda. Yohei is one of the bigger, best-established names in Japanese shoemaking. He also has a rather interesting set of products. There is a range of four levels, each with the same level of quality and hand-stitching, but different fit adjustments (they range in price from ¥280k to ¥430k, plus tax). They are: HOW TO STRETCH YOUR SWEATERS (PROPERLY) The steam relaxes them initially, and then cool air is pulled through to set their new size and shape. Without the pressing (shown below), the stitches relax over time (a few hours/days). This will always happen to an extent (even after steaming), but it should be minimal.THE BRIDGE COAT
The PS Bridge Coat was based off the standard pea coat made by Private White VC. But it adds over two inches in length, so it is long enough to go over any traditional suit jacket. And it adds some traditional design details. So the buttons up the front run sweeping, flattering lines more usually seen on overcoats. MILAN: A SARTORIAL CITY GUIDE Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll. CERRATO BESPOKE TROUSERS, NAPLES Cerrato can also do the extra handwork (or any designs) if asked. Most Neapolitan trouser workshops are used to working for different clients and have little house style. For us in London, the most important thing is that Cerrato trousers are relatively cheap (from £550) and with Massimo based here, there is no need to wait for a visit fromItaly.
MADRAS LINEN CLOTH
Madras linen cloth. £65.00 EXCL. VAT. Default Title - £65.00. Add to Cart. *Note: This is a cloth, to buy and use with a shirtmaker. It is not a finished shirt. Most checked shirtings available for bespoke are bright and loud. It's hard to find something that's subtle, or may we even say, sophisticated.PERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. WW CHAN – PERMANENT STYLE Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong. Read More. March 28 th 2012. WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The Armoury Hi Simon, As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespokeuntil I
NICOLA CORNACCHIA GREY SUMMER SUIT: REVIEW Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review. This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was coldand wet and
IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option JAPANESE SHOEMAKERS: YOHEI FUKUDA, MARQUESS, YUKIJAPANESE SHOE BRANDS MENJAPANESE SHOE SITESBESPOKE SHOEMAKERS IN USAJAPANESE DRESS SHOESJAPANESE SHOE STOREJAPANESE SHOES MEN Yokei Fukuda. Yohei is one of the bigger, best-established names in Japanese shoemaking. He also has a rather interesting set of products. There is a range of four levels, each with the same level of quality and hand-stitching, but different fit adjustments (they range in price from ¥280k to ¥430k, plus tax). They are: HOW TO STRETCH YOUR SWEATERS (PROPERLY) The steam relaxes them initially, and then cool air is pulled through to set their new size and shape. Without the pressing (shown below), the stitches relax over time (a few hours/days). This will always happen to an extent (even after steaming), but it should be minimal.THE BRIDGE COAT
The PS Bridge Coat was based off the standard pea coat made by Private White VC. But it adds over two inches in length, so it is long enough to go over any traditional suit jacket. And it adds some traditional design details. So the buttons up the front run sweeping, flattering lines more usually seen on overcoats. MILAN: A SARTORIAL CITY GUIDE Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll. CERRATO BESPOKE TROUSERS, NAPLES Cerrato can also do the extra handwork (or any designs) if asked. Most Neapolitan trouser workshops are used to working for different clients and have little house style. For us in London, the most important thing is that Cerrato trousers are relatively cheap (from £550) and with Massimo based here, there is no need to wait for a visit fromItaly.
MADRAS LINEN CLOTH
Madras linen cloth. £65.00 EXCL. VAT. Default Title - £65.00. Add to Cart. *Note: This is a cloth, to buy and use with a shirtmaker. It is not a finished shirt. Most checked shirtings available for bespoke are bright and loud. It's hard to find something that's subtle, or may we even say, sophisticated. BRANDS – PERMANENT STYLE February 1 st 2016. Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my firstPERMANENT STYLE
Permanent Style is open as usual and shipping to all parts of the world. Brexit will only have one effect on EU customers, which is that they will now pay their local VAT rate, rather than the UK rate of 20%. This 'landed price' approach may involve some extra admin costs for PS, but will make the transition as smooth as possible. WHAT ARE THE BEST CHEAPER SHOE BRANDS? Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. €200, €240, €170. This is the next level down of Spanish brands, more on a par with the Swedish start-ups in terms of quality, but much bigger organisations. “Sendra is a factory that makes for a lot of cheaper start-ups, because they’re so flexible and have no minimums. JEAN-MANUEL MOREAU, PARIS Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around.. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery and SHIRTING MILLS AND BRANDS EXPLAINED The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths that can be very confusing.. Shirtings are simpler. But it’s still probably worth setting out who the players are, how they interact, and whether you should consider any of it HOW TO STRETCH YOUR SWEATERS (PROPERLY) I've always rather liked domestic fixes to knitwear. Darning holes, removing pilling, slimming bodies: I've consistently practiced and written about them all over the years.(Posts at those links). But being introduced to Love Cashmere up in Hawick, Scotland last year changed all that. Their service for repairing, washing and altering was so good (and such great value) that it undermined any INTERWAR ART, POSTERS AND MENSWEAR The most elegant advertising of the past was produced in the 1920s and 1930s by lithograph - often carved onto stone rather than metal, before being printed. They were incredibly over-resourced. Train companies like LNER hired commercial ar THE BEST CLOTHS OF SPRING/SUMMER 2020 The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to Jake JAPANESE SHOEMAKERS: YOHEI FUKUDA, MARQUESS, YUKI Yokei Fukuda. Yohei is one of the bigger, best-established names in Japanese shoemaking. He also has a rather interesting set of products. There is a range of four levels, each with the same level of quality and hand-stitching, but different fit adjustments (they range in price from ¥280k to ¥430k, plus tax). They are:FRANK CLEGG BAGS
I first got to know Frank Clegg five years ago, back when the company was still Lotuff & Clegg. I bought a beautiful leather tote bag in 2011 – and have continued to recommend it ever since.. Unfortunately Joe Lotuff, who I interviewed at the time, fell out with Frank and the two halves of the company went their separate ways.. Lotuff bags are now sold online and in a few shops, but I (andPERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. WW CHAN – PERMANENT STYLE Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong. Read More. March 28 th 2012. WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The Armoury Hi Simon, As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespokeuntil I
NICOLA CORNACCHIA GREY SUMMER SUIT: REVIEW Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review. This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was coldand wet and
IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option JAPANESE SHOEMAKERS: YOHEI FUKUDA, MARQUESS, YUKIJAPANESE SHOE BRANDS MENJAPANESE SHOE SITESBESPOKE SHOEMAKERS IN USAJAPANESE DRESS SHOESJAPANESE SHOE STOREJAPANESE SHOES MEN Yokei Fukuda. Yohei is one of the bigger, best-established names in Japanese shoemaking. He also has a rather interesting set of products. There is a range of four levels, each with the same level of quality and hand-stitching, but different fit adjustments (they range in price from ¥280k to ¥430k, plus tax). They are: HOW TO STRETCH YOUR SWEATERS (PROPERLY) The steam relaxes them initially, and then cool air is pulled through to set their new size and shape. Without the pressing (shown below), the stitches relax over time (a few hours/days). This will always happen to an extent (even after steaming), but it should be minimal.THE BRIDGE COAT
The PS Bridge Coat was based off the standard pea coat made by Private White VC. But it adds over two inches in length, so it is long enough to go over any traditional suit jacket. And it adds some traditional design details. So the buttons up the front run sweeping, flattering lines more usually seen on overcoats. MILAN: A SARTORIAL CITY GUIDE Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll. CERRATO BESPOKE TROUSERS, NAPLES Cerrato can also do the extra handwork (or any designs) if asked. Most Neapolitan trouser workshops are used to working for different clients and have little house style. For us in London, the most important thing is that Cerrato trousers are relatively cheap (from £550) and with Massimo based here, there is no need to wait for a visit fromItaly.
MADRAS LINEN CLOTH
Madras linen cloth. £65.00 EXCL. VAT. Default Title - £65.00. Add to Cart. *Note: This is a cloth, to buy and use with a shirtmaker. It is not a finished shirt. Most checked shirtings available for bespoke are bright and loud. It's hard to find something that's subtle, or may we even say, sophisticated.PERMANENT STYLE
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Sav Cloth - Suits. April 9 th 2021. WW CHAN – PERMANENT STYLE Reader question: first bespoke, in Hong Kong. Read More. March 28 th 2012. WW Chan jacket, courtesy of The Armoury Hi Simon, As an expat Brit living in Hong Kong, I like to think have a keen eye for style and fashion but surprisingly had never thought about going bespokeuntil I
NICOLA CORNACCHIA GREY SUMMER SUIT: REVIEW Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review. This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was coldand wet and
IF YOU ONLY HAD FIVE JACKETS: A CAPSULE COLLECTION 2 Dark brown. Dark brown should probably be the first choice for a casual jacket. Brown and green are the more casual, rural equivalents of the city’s navy and grey, and brown is a little easier to wear than green – even with brown shoes. A lovely casual option JAPANESE SHOEMAKERS: YOHEI FUKUDA, MARQUESS, YUKIJAPANESE SHOE BRANDS MENJAPANESE SHOE SITESBESPOKE SHOEMAKERS IN USAJAPANESE DRESS SHOESJAPANESE SHOE STOREJAPANESE SHOES MEN Yokei Fukuda. Yohei is one of the bigger, best-established names in Japanese shoemaking. He also has a rather interesting set of products. There is a range of four levels, each with the same level of quality and hand-stitching, but different fit adjustments (they range in price from ¥280k to ¥430k, plus tax). They are: HOW TO STRETCH YOUR SWEATERS (PROPERLY) The steam relaxes them initially, and then cool air is pulled through to set their new size and shape. Without the pressing (shown below), the stitches relax over time (a few hours/days). This will always happen to an extent (even after steaming), but it should be minimal.THE BRIDGE COAT
The PS Bridge Coat was based off the standard pea coat made by Private White VC. But it adds over two inches in length, so it is long enough to go over any traditional suit jacket. And it adds some traditional design details. So the buttons up the front run sweeping, flattering lines more usually seen on overcoats. MILAN: A SARTORIAL CITY GUIDE Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll. CERRATO BESPOKE TROUSERS, NAPLES Cerrato can also do the extra handwork (or any designs) if asked. Most Neapolitan trouser workshops are used to working for different clients and have little house style. For us in London, the most important thing is that Cerrato trousers are relatively cheap (from £550) and with Massimo based here, there is no need to wait for a visit fromItaly.
MADRAS LINEN CLOTH
Madras linen cloth. £65.00 EXCL. VAT. Default Title - £65.00. Add to Cart. *Note: This is a cloth, to buy and use with a shirtmaker. It is not a finished shirt. Most checked shirtings available for bespoke are bright and loud. It's hard to find something that's subtle, or may we even say, sophisticated. BRANDS – PERMANENT STYLE February 1 st 2016. Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my firstPERMANENT STYLE
Permanent Style is open as usual and shipping to all parts of the world. Brexit will only have one effect on EU customers, which is that they will now pay their local VAT rate, rather than the UK rate of 20%. This 'landed price' approach may involve some extra admin costs for PS, but will make the transition as smooth as possible. WHAT ARE THE BEST CHEAPER SHOE BRANDS? Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. €200, €240, €170. This is the next level down of Spanish brands, more on a par with the Swedish start-ups in terms of quality, but much bigger organisations. “Sendra is a factory that makes for a lot of cheaper start-ups, because they’re so flexible and have no minimums. JEAN-MANUEL MOREAU, PARIS Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around.. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery and SHIRTING MILLS AND BRANDS EXPLAINED The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths that can be very confusing.. Shirtings are simpler. But it’s still probably worth setting out who the players are, how they interact, and whether you should consider any of it HOW TO STRETCH YOUR SWEATERS (PROPERLY) I've always rather liked domestic fixes to knitwear. Darning holes, removing pilling, slimming bodies: I've consistently practiced and written about them all over the years.(Posts at those links). But being introduced to Love Cashmere up in Hawick, Scotland last year changed all that. Their service for repairing, washing and altering was so good (and such great value) that it undermined any INTERWAR ART, POSTERS AND MENSWEAR The most elegant advertising of the past was produced in the 1920s and 1930s by lithograph - often carved onto stone rather than metal, before being printed. They were incredibly over-resourced. Train companies like LNER hired commercial ar THE BEST CLOTHS OF SPRING/SUMMER 2020 The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to Jake JAPANESE SHOEMAKERS: YOHEI FUKUDA, MARQUESS, YUKI Yokei Fukuda. Yohei is one of the bigger, best-established names in Japanese shoemaking. He also has a rather interesting set of products. There is a range of four levels, each with the same level of quality and hand-stitching, but different fit adjustments (they range in price from ¥280k to ¥430k, plus tax). They are:FRANK CLEGG BAGS
I first got to know Frank Clegg five years ago, back when the company was still Lotuff & Clegg. I bought a beautiful leather tote bag in 2011 – and have continued to recommend it ever since.. Unfortunately Joe Lotuff, who I interviewed at the time, fell out with Frank and the two halves of the company went their separate ways.. Lotuff bags are now sold online and in a few shops, but I (and The Permanent Style Newsletter xClick here to register Click here to read our Privacy PolicyMenu
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LATEST POST
INTERWAR ART, POSTERS AND MENSWEAR – WITH FAB GORJIANRead More
June
2nd 2021
The most elegant advertising of the past was produced in the 1920s and 1930s by lithograph - often carved onto stone rather than metal, before being printed. They were incredibly over-resourced. Train companies like LNE... INTERWAR ART, POSTERS AND MENSWEAR – WITH FAB GORJIAN The most elegant advertising of the past was produced in the 1920s and 1930s by lithograph - often carved onto stone rather than metal, before being printed. They were incredibly over-resourced. Train companies like LNE...June 2nd 2021
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LATEST POSTS
WHAT IS FRENCH IVY?
Read More
May
31st 2021
By Tony Sylvester “A few years back, I posted a photo of Paul Weller on my Instagram (above). It was taken in 1984 in his Style Council era, where much to the consternation of the Mod faithful, he wasconstantly ti...
WHAT IS FRENCH IVY?
By Tony Sylvester “A few years back, I posted a photo of Paul Weller on my Instagram (above). It was taken in 1984 in his Style Council era, where much to the consternation of the Mod faithful, he wasconstantly ti...
May 31st 2021
Read More
TRANSFORMING FUR ENDS, SCRAPS AND WASTERead More
May
28th 2021
How far is it possible to make a coat lining with shreds, off-cuts and otherwise wasted pieces of fur? When I made a lining for my M65 field jacket two years ago , the thing that attracted me most was the ideaof re-usin...
TRANSFORMING FUR ENDS, SCRAPS AND WASTE How far is it possible to make a coat lining with shreds, off-cuts and otherwise wasted pieces of fur? When I made a lining for my M65 field jacket two years ago , the thing that attracted me most was the ideaof re-usin...
Coats May 28th 2021
Read More
THE T-SHIRT UNDER TAILORINGRead More
May
26th 2021
I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than acollared s...
THE T-SHIRT UNDER TAILORING I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than acollared s...
Jackets - Style
May 26th 2021
Read More
CASATLANTIC ‘MOGADOR’ TROUSERS: REVIEWRead More
May
24th 2021
These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style. But they aren’t yourever...
CASATLANTIC ‘MOGADOR’ TROUSERS: REVIEW These trousers from young brand Casatlantic deserve to be in our chino series ( previously Rubato ; upcoming Real McCoy’s) by virtue of being cotton twills, in a fairly clean style. But they aren’t yourever...
Trousers May 24th
2021
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NEW COMMENTS FUNCTIONALITYRead More
May
22nd 2021
We deployed a new comments interface last night on Permanent Style, with the aim of adding useful functionality. The new system allows: Posting of images in comments These should appear as thumbnails in your comment, onc... NEW COMMENTS FUNCTIONALITY We deployed a new comments interface last night on Permanent Style, with the aim of adding useful functionality. The new system allows: Posting of images in comments These should appear as thumbnails in your comment, onc...May 22nd 2021
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TAILORING AND MILSURP: HOW TO DRESS LIKE ETHAN WONGRead More
May
21st 2021
Like many men that feature in this ‘How to dress like’ series, I find the differences between how I and Ethan Wong dress just as interesting as the similarities. In fact more so. We have similarinfluences...
TAILORING AND MILSURP: HOW TO DRESS LIKE ETHAN WONG Like many men that feature in this ‘How to dress like’ series, I find the differences between how I and Ethan Wong dress just as interesting as the similarities. In fact more so. We have similarinfluences...
Style May 21st 2021
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INTRODUCING: THE FINEST POLORead More
May
19th 2021
This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar,and the sa...
INTRODUCING: THE FINEST POLO This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar,and the sa...
Knitwear May 19th
2021
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LEARNING TO DRESS MY BODY BETTERRead More
May
17th 2021
I've learnt many things over the past 13 years of writing Permanent Style, but one I've learnt most intimately is how different clothes suit my particular physique, and physiognomy. This does come up on PS,in articles a...
LEARNING TO DRESS MY BODY BETTER I've learnt many things over the past 13 years of writing Permanent Style, but one I've learnt most intimately is how different clothes suit my particular physique, and physiognomy. This does come up on PS,in articles a...
Style May 17th 2021
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RUBATO OFFICER’S CHINOS: REVIEWRead More
May
14th 2021
I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. The change was mostlyin the ...
RUBATO OFFICER’S CHINOS: REVIEW I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. The change was mostlyin the ...
Knitwear - TrousersMay 14th 2021
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BLACKHORSE LANE MADE-TO-MEASURE JEANSRead More
May
12th 2021
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things -particularly Co...
BLACKHORSE LANE MADE-TO-MEASURE JEANS About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things -particularly Co...
Denim May 12th 2021
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ACTIVE THREADS
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Thank you Dan, and thanks for the typo too. I'll pick that up now Interwar art, posters and menswear – with Fab GorjianRead the comments
I'm surprised it's so short on you normally Andrew - that is quite a big difference. I'm afraid I'd imagine the cuff would look a little odd if there was nothing covering it, like a jacket sleeve? The Guide to Shirt CuffsRead the comments
True, linen is quite open usually, but also quite tough. There isn't much natural stretch. Often cotton/linen mixes are better The Guide to Trouser ClothsRead the comments
Thank you so much
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: ReviewRead the comments
Hi Flynn, I'm afraid the material I used for my coat is no longer available. I actually rewove it earlier this year with Holland & Sherry and made it available to readers - see article here. But it's now sold out. If you would like… The Holland & Sherry cloths I have knownRead the comments
It's a bit Samuel Beckett in white socks and loafers then.What is French Ivy?
Read the comments
LATEST POSTS CONTINUED VIBERG SERVICE BOOTS: MY CHOICE OF WORK BOOTRead More
May
10th 2021
During the past Winter, I was vaguely looking to replace my longstanding work boots from Wolverine (above) . They’d done great service: on long country walks, camping in different parts of the country, and just go... VIBERG SERVICE BOOTS: MY CHOICE OF WORK BOOT During the past Winter, I was vaguely looking to replace my longstanding work boots from Wolverine (above) . They’d done great service: on long country walks, camping in different parts of the country, and just go...Shoes May 10th 2021
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LAYERING AND ACCESSORIES FOR COLD SPRING DAYSRead More
May
7th 2021
Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’mroasti...
LAYERING AND ACCESSORIES FOR COLD SPRING DAYS Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’mroasti...
Style May 7th 2021
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BOTH CHIC AND BOLD: HOW TO DRESS LIKE ANGEL RAMOSRead More
May
5th 2021
Although Angel Ramos and I have only met a few times, we’ve always seemed to have something in common when it came to styles we liked. Angel wears slippers a lot, and has more of a tendency towards brightcolours ...
BOTH CHIC AND BOLD: HOW TO DRESS LIKE ANGEL RAMOS Although Angel Ramos and I have only met a few times, we’ve always seemed to have something in common when it came to styles we liked. Angel wears slippers a lot, and has more of a tendency towards brightcolours ...
Style May 5th 2021
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DALMO MADE-TO-MEASURE CASHMERERead More
May
3rd 2021
In recent weeks we’ve talked about hand-framed knitwear - the slow knitting process used on knits like the Stoffa ribbed polo and the Saman Amel cricket sweater . I’ll do a more in-depth piece on theprocess...
DALMO MADE-TO-MEASURE CASHMERE In recent weeks we’ve talked about hand-framed knitwear - the slow knitting process used on knits like the Stoffa ribbed polo and the Saman Amel cricket sweater . I’ll do a more in-depth piece on theprocess...
Knitwear May 3rd
2021
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SPRING/SUMMER TOP 10: CHORES, SHIRTS AND SWEATSRead More
April
30th 2021
1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats...
SPRING/SUMMER TOP 10: CHORES, SHIRTS AND SWEATS 1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats...
Casual clothing
- Jackets
April 30th 2021
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MASSURA MADE-TO-MEASURE JACKET: REVIEWRead More
April
28th 2021
Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but Ithink ...
MASSURA MADE-TO-MEASURE JACKET: REVIEW Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but Ithink ...
Jackets April 28th
2021
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INSTAGRAM STORIES
Click on an image to enlarge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon LATEST POSTS CONTINUED THE ITALIAN HANDMADE SHIRTRead More
April
26th 2021
Many countries still make shirts by hand, including in Spain with the likes of Burgos and, further afield, someone like 100 Hands in India. But it is Italy that has really kept the flame alive. Indeed, it’sone of...
THE ITALIAN HANDMADE SHIRT Many countries still make shirts by hand, including in Spain with the likes of Burgos and, further afield, someone like 100 Hands in India. But it is Italy that has really kept the flame alive. Indeed, it’sone of...
Shirts April 26th 2021Read More
INTRODUCING: PS HARRIS TWEEDRead More
April
23rd 2021
My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now. Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below ),a fan...
INTRODUCING: PS HARRIS TWEED My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now. Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below ),a fan...
Cloth April 23rd 2021Read More
HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS)Read More
April
21st 2021
There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif inParis or ...
HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS) There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif inParis or ...
Casual clothing
- Denim
April 21st 2021
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THE CRAFT AND ECCENTRICITY OF 45RRead More
April
19th 2021
The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by theindigo textu...
THE CRAFT AND ECCENTRICITY OF 45R The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by theindigo textu...
Denim - Hanks and
scarves April 19th
2021
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THE ADRET STORE: FULL-BLOWN BEAUTYRead More
April
16th 2021
This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, theachingly beaut...
THE ADRET STORE: FULL-BLOWN BEAUTY This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, theachingly beaut...
Casual clothing
- Jackets
April 16th 2021
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SUPPORT OUR SHOPS. AT LEAST THE REAL ONESRead More
April
14th 2021
It is genuinely important that - if you can - you visit a UK shop and support it now they’re open again. Why? Because good retail offers something distinct that could easily be lost. Let me explain thedifference ...
SUPPORT OUR SHOPS. AT LEAST THE REAL ONES It is genuinely important that - if you can - you visit a UK shop and support it now they’re open again. Why? Because good retail offers something distinct that could easily be lost. Let me explain thedifference ...
April 14th 2021
Read More
THE CUSTOM-BLOCK SERVICE, FROM OPTIMORead More
April
12th 2021
Over the past year or so, Optimo has been developing a unique bespoke hat programme, where a personal ‘block’ is made for each customer. Most Optimo hats are already made to order, so customers pick theirfe...
THE CUSTOM-BLOCK SERVICE, FROM OPTIMO Over the past year or so, Optimo has been developing a unique bespoke hat programme, where a personal ‘block’ is made for each customer. Most Optimo hats are already made to order, so customers pick theirfe...
Hats April 12th 2021Read More
WHITCOMB & SHAFTESBURY RAF-BLUE SUIT: STYLE BREAKDOWNRead More
April
9th 2021
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer aSav...
WHITCOMB & SHAFTESBURY RAF-BLUE SUIT: STYLE BREAKDOWN Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer aSav...
Cloth - Suits
April 9th 2021
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WHITE JEANS: HOW TO BUY, WASH AND WEARRead More
April
7th 2021
White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirtunbuttoned to th...
WHITE JEANS: HOW TO BUY, WASH AND WEAR White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirtunbuttoned to th...
Denim - Style
April 7th 2021
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THESE ARE THE TOOLS: YOU HAVE TO USE THEMRead More
April
5th 2021
“Can I wear dark-brown shoes like these with a suit in my office? Do you think it would be appropriate?” The answer is, I don’t know. I don’t work in your office: I don’t know what the impli... THESE ARE THE TOOLS: YOU HAVE TO USE THEM “Can I wear dark-brown shoes like these with a suit in my office? Do you think it would be appropriate?” The answer is, I don’t know. I don’t work in your office: I don’t know what the impli... Style April 5th 2021Read More
DENIM
BLACKHORSE LANE MADE-TO-MEASURE JEANSRead More
May
12th 2021
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things -particularly Co...
BLACKHORSE LANE MADE-TO-MEASURE JEANS About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things -particularly Co...
Denim May 12th 2021
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HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS)Read More
April
21st 2021
There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif inParis or ...
HANG-UP VINTAGE (AND REPAIRS, AND CREATIONS) There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif inParis or ...
Casual clothing
- Denim
April 21st 2021
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THE CRAFT AND ECCENTRICITY OF 45RRead More
April
19th 2021
The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by theindigo textu...
THE CRAFT AND ECCENTRICITY OF 45R The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by theindigo textu...
Denim - Hanks and
scarves April 19th
2021
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READER QS
VIDEO CHAT: HOW TO BUILD A WARDROBE FROM SCRATCHRead More
June
26th 2020
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how muchshould I sp...
VIDEO CHAT: HOW TO BUILD A WARDROBE FROM SCRATCH This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how muchshould I sp...
Reader questions
- Video
June 26th 2020
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VIDEO CHAT: GOING TO A MAKER FOR THE FIRST TIMERead More
May
25th 2020
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was:‘I&rsquo...
VIDEO CHAT: GOING TO A MAKER FOR THE FIRST TIME I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was:‘I&rsquo...
Reader questions
- Video
May 25th 2020
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CLOTHING RESOURCES: PLACES TO CLEAN, ALTER AND REPAIRRead More
September
5th 2018
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with allthese rec...
CLOTHING RESOURCES: PLACES TO CLEAN, ALTER AND REPAIR One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with allthese rec...
Reader questions
September
5th 2018
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FACTORY VISITS
HOW CORDOVAN IS MADE, AT HORWEEN TANNERY, CHICAGORead More
December
6th 2019
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty,old or new?...
HOW CORDOVAN IS MADE, AT HORWEEN TANNERY, CHICAGO Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty,old or new?...
Factory visits
- Shoes
December 6th 2019
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YVES SALOMON: RE-USING, REMODELLING FURRead More
January
18th 2019
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshopsin the worl...
YVES SALOMON: RE-USING, REMODELLING FUR Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshopsin the worl...
Coats - Factory
visits January
18th 2019
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FRANK CLEGG, FALL RIVER: FACTORY VISITRead More
January
2nd 2019
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to beplaced in the...
FRANK CLEGG, FALL RIVER: FACTORY VISIT It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to beplaced in the...
Bags -
Factory visits
January 2nd
2019
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